Thread: Yanagiba polishing

I bought myself an inexpensive yanagiba for a practice polish. It was pretty crooked so I straightened it up & have started working on the ura (back hollow).

I started at 800 grit but now I'm using the 280 grit stone in the picture. The diagonal grind lines are slow to go. My hat's off to the guys that do this all the time.

Started at the 2 ends & meeting towards the rear atm. Not sure if I'll go coarser or stick with the 280 for now. Will be glad when I finish the 'hard' side .

great, now i have two knives to polish. just what i needed...

If you don't mind my asking, to what end do you polish it? Just for the looks? I am completely ignorant in the world of knives.

Originally Posted by Laurens

If you don't mind my asking, to what end do you polish it? Just for the looks? I am completely ignorant in the world of knives.

I don't know that polishing is the right word.
The idea is to create an even hollow on the back so that the bevels are tiny on spine & edge. It makes for longevity, good geometry & easy sharpening.
The front polishing is both cosmetic & also to create a certain visual effect on the fish by the way the oils react to the cut that won't happen with other knives not polished traditionally.

The final sharpening is of course part of the process too.

Thanks! So you really put it flat on the hone? That sounds pretty tough for me, considering I used 3 layers of tape on my near wedge.

Originally Posted by Laurens

Thanks! So you really put it flat on the hone? That sounds pretty tough for me, considering I used 3 layers of tape on my near wedge.

The back is hollow so I used the tips of the stones in the picture to evenly do small amounts at a time. After the 800 I used some wetndri paper up to 2000 grit to smooth it more. Next will be small Jnat pieces called Hazuya or Jizuya to colour & further refine the back. Haven't started the front of the knife yet.

When I hone it, this side will be laid flat on the stone & fingers X'd, will result in small bevels at spine & edge

Originally Posted by onimaru55

The back is hollow so I used the tips of the stones in the picture to evenly do small amounts at a time. After the 800 I used some wetndri paper up to 2000 grit to smooth it more. Next will be small Jnat pieces called Hazuya or Jizuya to colour & further refine the back. Haven't started the front of the knife yet.

When I hone it, this side will be laid flat on the stone & fingers X'd, will result in small bevels at spine & edge

I see, nice! I look forward to seeing the results. You prefer to do this by hand rather than using a buffer?

Originally Posted by Laurens

I see, nice! I look forward to seeing the results. You prefer to do this by hand rather than using a buffer?

I probably could have used a buffer on some areas to speed things up but certainly not near the tip.
On the omote where the front needs to be flat above the shinogi line, a stone is probably best. Depending on how wobbly the bevel is a belt sander or stone will be my choice to remove any dips.

Originally Posted by Laurens

I see, nice! I look forward to seeing the results. You prefer to do this by hand rather than using a buffer?

Using a buffer on fine Japanese steel? dear lord save me.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Using a buffer on fine Japanese steel? dear lord save me.

It's the application of the tool that is important. This knife was originally ground on a huge belt sander after all.
I was thinking a 2" wheel & some greaseless compound my have saved some of the 180 grit drudge work prior to hand sanding.
Some of these cheaper knives are about as straight as a washboard but of course on fine Japanese steel it would not even be necessary.