Even on a Western style knife like a gyuto, you can have sections of the blade that are ground flat and parallel, "trapezoid" flat like a wedge or standard flat knife grind, hollow and convex all in a space no more than 2 inches wide. :o
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Even on a Western style knife like a gyuto, you can have sections of the blade that are ground flat and parallel, "trapezoid" flat like a wedge or standard flat knife grind, hollow and convex all in a space no more than 2 inches wide. :o
I do all my cutting with a cheapo cleaver from WallyWorld. Everything from busting up an onion to chopping veggies to cutting through chicken bones. You don't need a range of knives, the cleaver does it all, from finesse work to heavy muscle work.
With the single bevel knives, a lot of them have a tiny secondary bevel on the "flat' side. Also, the convex "transition" can sometimes be the entire blade rode, albeit a VERY shallow convex. Likewise, some double bevel "western" style knives like gyutos, sujihikis and petty can have varying asymmetrical grinds right down at the edge.
Which side is the "flat" side?
From your post I take it you have sharpened knives with that geometry, and have experience with a lot of Japanese kitchen knives?
You must then know that there is no flat side on a traditional knife. Western style knives are symmetrical with exception of Aritsugo gyutos which are intentionally ground asymmetric (back side almost flat). The asymmetry is done post purchase by people that think thin knife cuts better and having no clue how food release works and that a lot of smiths do not know how to grind a proper cutting knife.
There should not be micro bevel on the ura side, that defeats the purpose of the grind, same reason we do not put micro bevels on the ura side of Kamisori. The Omote side should have no microbevel as well, but many put one to increase the edge longevity, however the edge fails fast because of lack of cutting technique.
The knifes usually come 50/50 and most of the time not even sharpened to potential, the smiths in Japan believe that one should put their own edge on their knives to tune them up to one's preferences. As for the asymmetry, I think it is a fad people like to think that that improves cutting, just like people used to think thinned blades are bestter cutters. Ever since Kato was introduced in America, it became apparent that geometry and grind matter a lot more than how thin a blade is. All those are related to food release, and that plays into the cutting action. So IMHO 50/50 is just fine if the knife is made correctly.Quote:
As for the "asymmetry" I was talking about stuff like a 60/40. etc primary bevel.
True. I am going by what the hardcore looneys do over oaths side of the pond. :p My understanding is that Shigefusas are not exactly know for being thin whippy "lasers". You say USED to think that thinning behind the edgewas the ticket? When did they stop doing that over here? LOL As for the "factory" edge, in many cases is that an issue of economy in that a maker can't really afford to spend a couple hours putting a highly polished final edge on knives if he expects to make enough to sell? I know that you can pay extra for retailers like JCK to put a "proper" edge on your knife before shipping.
what do they do, got any sources to educate us?
no they are not but they are also not that great cutters without some tinkering.Quote:
My understanding is that Shigefusas are not exactly know for being thin whippy "lasers".
yes that was the be all end all trend 3-5 years ago. All of a sudden thin knives such as Suisin INOX Honyaki and Ikkanshi Tadatsuna became very popular because they were "very good" cutters. Then people started realizing that thinness is not the key to better handling, it is grind/geometry. Quite a few people were very surprised how a Kato can out outperform almost anything out there for such thick knife.Quote:
You say USED to think that thinning behind the edge was the ticket?
No it is just accepted that each chef/cook can put the edge they like on their knife very simple.Quote:
LOL As for the "factory" edge, in many cases is that an issue of economy in that a maker can't really afford to spend a couple hours putting a highly polished final edge on knives if he expects to make enough to sell?
Those that do not can't or do not to learn how to sharpen pay for sharpening services it is their choice/right to do w/e they want with their money.Quote:
I know that you can pay extra for retailers like JCK to put a "proper" edge on your knife before shipping.
You did not answer my question by the way, what Japanese knives have you personally handled and used, because reading on the forums is not quite the same as actually cutting something and definitely not quite like sharpening a blade, especially a traditional.
My handling of Japanese knives has been quite limited. I currently own two reasonably priced ones, the Hattori form knife suji and one of JCK's "house brand" semi stainless gytuos that were primarily bought to use as patterns. As for picking up stuff on the forums, I have made a number of wa handled western style knives out of W2, 115W8 and my own 1084/15N20 damascus that were sold. Good feedback on all and the one where I got some particularly funny comments was a 270-mm suji using the basic profile of the Hattori but with the S grind that I previously mentioned. It was declared by its food industry pro/ knife nut owner to be a "roast slaying machine" Better lucky than good, right?. So I am a neophyte but not a COMPLETE neophyte. :D