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But it is still sharp and shiny. A hunting knife from 5160. the handle is Ipe maple, and hickory. http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/a...photo-31-1.jpghttp://i982.photobucket.com/albums/a...photo-30-1.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/photo-32.jpg
It's not to my knife tastes, but it's still a pretty Skinning knife all the same. Can you post a better quality photo?
Mick
Probably but I need to find my camera first. That was taken with my cell phone camera, so it does explain the crummy quality. It cuts pretty well and is rather sharp (I shaved my face with it).Quote:
Originally Posted by MickR
But, you are right. It's not really a razor. :)
Regards - Walt
Could you post some specs on your knife? I'm assuming you have made it a half tang that is peen riveted to the darker timber with a cap of the light timber dowelled into the dark. Is the half tang a rats tail tang or a flat section half?
Whats the thickness of the 5160? Was the knife made via stock removal or was it smithed?
What was the finishing grit on the blade sanding?
What was the finish coat on the timber?
What is the edge angle sharpened at? 30? 25? 20? 17? As a skinner I would expect 20 or 25, but you called it a hunter, so perhaps it's 25 or 30 degrees.
You can't just post a picture of a knife with minimal information and expect those of us here who are knife nuts to be satisfied, mate. C'mon!
Mick
It is forged from 1/4in 5160. It is about 3 3/4in long hand sanded to 800 grit and etched in hot vinegar to reveal the hardening line. The wood is finished with oil and hand sanded to 600 grit with AL Oxide (though it was worn sandpaper, so maybe its finish is the same as 800 grit). I can't tell you the edge angle as I eyeballed it, but it works well. It is thin enough for push cuts in wood, but steep enough to survive bone (maybe 22 degrees). It is a secondary bevel after a flat grind.Quote:
Originally Posted by MickR
It is a hidden tang blade. The tang is about 3/4in wide and goes all the way through the handle, peined over the brass bit (not shown in pictures). This system has served me pretty well so far, so Im rather fond of it.
I don't really get caught up in specs, but how it works in the field so it didn't really occur to me to add them. Sorry mate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tenderfoot
Thanks for the added info. As a maker (in hiatus at the moment) of knives myself, I appreciate it. I understand the sentiment of how a knife performs in the field as the most important thing, however knowing the specs is good practice for repeatability of a knife that proves to excel itself.
As an aside, I'm a fan of full tangs rather than through tangs (I see their good points all the same) and I absolutely despise rat tail tangs (Useless and weak IMHO). All my knives to date are full tang, though I do plan on doing a through tang one of these days. :-)
Mick
IMO repeatability is only for selling knives. I am trying to reach a point where I will not need to repeat the same knife as I got it just right. But I do see your point.Quote:
Originally Posted by MickR
And I think full tangs are over built. Through tangs have survived me battoning one through a log with a 3lb drilling hammer, so I don't see the need for more strength. LOL But to each their own, use what works for you and all that.
What the difference between through and full tang?
Also nice little knife. I have a couple but since I started with straights I dont collect them anymore.
A through tang is a tang that is wide and flat but is hidden by the knife handle, for example a 3cm from spine to blade knife may have a tang that is set just high of centre and be 1 cm wide, may or may not taper to the pommel end etc.
A full tang knife has a tang that is the full width of the handle and so you will see the metal as a divider between the handle slabs. I agree with Tenderfoot, in that a full tang may be over built, but at least it won't be the failure point of the knife.
The most common failure point of any knife is usually the point where the tang and the ricasso (rear part of the blade) meet.
A rats tail tang is much narrower than a through tang, is sometimes just a rod welded on to the actual blade, it's a cheap and nasty way to make a knife. It's usually found on cheap knives or knives meant solely for display, but has been known to be used in some better quality knives in rare cases.
Hope you can understand that description.
Mick
Thanks for the little info.
I prefer the full tang knives just cuz I beat the crap out of mine when I use them. And if the handle were to ever break I could wrap the tang with something else and keep using it.
That is part of my thinking too. Much easier to repair a full tang with a broken handle than any other style of tang. You can hammer them even harder than other knives. They'll still be a sevicable tool that your grandkids will be able to use providing you haven't worn the blade down to nothing.
Mick
I have a couple of kabar knives that I've been using for at least ten years now blade is still perfect and sharp as ever.
The only thin that's wrong with it is the black carbon coating is pretty much all rubbed off now.
Kabars are classic through tangs. I have one that has seen service from WW2. It certainly looks like it's been through the wars because it ain't a pretty boy anymore, but I would say it's just as capable a knife as the day it was first made. It has been retired for some years now though, as I would hate to inadvertantly break a knife that has already seen so much history. I have many, many other knives that will do my bushcraft needs just as well if not actually better. My Jungle Knife for one. Another case of over engineering with it's hardwood handle copper riveted onto a full tang, the guard welded to the 1/4" thick blade...I have two, one is in my collection and is untouched. The other is in my user pile and has had the handle sanded down to best fit my hand, the top section of the guard cut down and rounded so that it is easier to apply thumb pressure to the blade and the edge geometry modified to a more knife like edge instead of the axe like edge from the factory.
This is a knife that has been tested by being hammered into a large timber cross beam and then been used like a block and tackle to hoist the front end of a military jeep off the ground. That's my kind of knife!
Mick
Very nice indeed.
Got a link maybe so I can look into this knife;) lol
Knives 2 and 3 in this link are the same apart from handle material. I have the one with wood handle... Sheffield Knives Military Knives
And from the Australian AKC site (and where I bought mine from)...
JSK - JUNGLE SURVIVAL KNIFE
heavy duty, military issueCurrent version of an original concept for an arctic survival knife$129.00 + $12.00 post
designed for military use in 1960.
A heavy edged tool for really tough bushwork. 18cm blade.
Made to military specifications. Military stamp on handle.
Left-side leather scabbard. Sheffield made
http://www.knivesaustralia.com.au/jsknowill.jpg http://www.knivesaustralia.com.au/jsklogo.jpg
Same knife just another link... Lawrance Ordnance - J.Adams Ltd British Army Jungle Survival Knife (Late)
I also made a new sheath for mine, as the original military issue was just a little basic and left side carry only. I made one that would fit the knife either direction (left or right) and could also be worn horizontally, had Dee rings added for tie off points etc. And lined with Kangaroo hide of course... :) One of my finer (practical) achievements, but a complex one.
Mick
P.S I'll try and post a picture in my photo album tomorrow so you can see the mods made and the sheath. I think I've hi-jacked Tenderfoots thread for too long here today. My apologies Tenderfoot. I didn't realise what I was doing. Knives are a passion of mine and I tend to get carried away.
No worries mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by MickR
IMO If a knife isn't cutting stuff it isn't being used right. Use the right tool for the job, if you have it, and you won't need a ridiculously over built knife. Thats just me, but to each their own.
Agreed on all that you say there Tenderfoot, but if a knife isn't cutting stuff, it ain't been sharpened right. I just prefer over-built, because I tend to put myself in situations where I either carry a dozen knives to suit the jobs that crop up, or I take a heavy duty fixed and a multi-tool Leatherman, because pliers and screwdrivers are handy. I don't tend to use the knife function on them. I don't trust it's seeming lack of strength and I can't whittle to save myself.
I prefer over-built because anything I have on me has to serve at least a dual purpose. My knives have got to be able to dig, chop, hammer as well as cut. I don't have room on a motorbike to carry a shovel, axe and mallet when I go camping etc.
But I do agree, a knife should be used for it's designed purpose and then it won't have to be over-built. And on that reasoning knives I've made and those I prefer aren't over-built, as the designed purpose is to dig, chop, hammer and cut. Multi-functional requires strength. We will agree to disagree I'm sure, and I do have knives in my collection that don't fit my sentiments above, because to me, all knives are wonderful tools and have a certain beauty.
Mick
Tenderfoot, I like the rugged look of your knife. For anyone interested here is an example of a tang from Randall Made Knives website.
Nice knife. Pictures are a bit dark but it seems quite good. Like the hardening line in the steel. Gives it something extra.