Thread: Not really a razor

But it is still sharp and shiny. A hunting knife from 5160. the handle is Ipe maple, and hickory.

It's not to my knife tastes, but it's still a pretty Skinning knife all the same. Can you post a better quality photo?


Mick

Originally Posted by MickR

It's not to my knife tastes, but it's still a pretty Skinning knife all the same. Can you post a better quality photo?


Mick

Probably but I need to find my camera first. That was taken with my cell phone camera, so it does explain the crummy quality. It cuts pretty well and is rather sharp (I shaved my face with it).

But, you are right. It's not really a razor.

Regards - Walt

Could you post some specs on your knife? I'm assuming you have made it a half tang that is peen riveted to the darker timber with a cap of the light timber dowelled into the dark. Is the half tang a rats tail tang or a flat section half?
Whats the thickness of the 5160? Was the knife made via stock removal or was it smithed?
What was the finishing grit on the blade sanding?
What was the finish coat on the timber?
What is the edge angle sharpened at? 30? 25? 20? 17? As a skinner I would expect 20 or 25, but you called it a hunter, so perhaps it's 25 or 30 degrees.
You can't just post a picture of a knife with minimal information and expect those of us here who are knife nuts to be satisfied, mate. C'mon!


Mick

Originally Posted by MickR

Could you post some specs on your knife? I'm assuming you have made it a half tang that is peen riveted to the darker timber with a cap of the light timber dowelled into the dark. Is the half tang a rats tail tang or a flat section half?
Whats the thickness of the 5160? Was the knife made via stock removal or was it smithed?
What was the finishing grit on the blade sanding?
What was the finish coat on the timber?
What is the edge angle sharpened at? 30? 25? 20? 17? As a skinner I would expect 20 or 25, but you called it a hunter, so perhaps it's 25 or 30 degrees.
You can't just post a picture of a knife with minimal information and expect those of us here who are knife nuts to be satisfied, mate. C'mon!


Mick

It is forged from 1/4in 5160. It is about 3 3/4in long hand sanded to 800 grit and etched in hot vinegar to reveal the hardening line. The wood is finished with oil and hand sanded to 600 grit with AL Oxide (though it was worn sandpaper, so maybe its finish is the same as 800 grit). I can't tell you the edge angle as I eyeballed it, but it works well. It is thin enough for push cuts in wood, but steep enough to survive bone (maybe 22 degrees). It is a secondary bevel after a flat grind.

It is a hidden tang blade. The tang is about 3/4in wide and goes all the way through the handle, peined over the brass bit (not shown in pictures). This system has served me pretty well so far, so Im rather fond of it.

I don't really get caught up in specs, but how it works in the field so it didn't really occur to me to add them. Sorry mate.

Originally Posted by Tenderfoot

It is forged from 1/4in 5160. It is about 3 3/4in long hand sanded to 800 grit and etched in hot vinegar to reveal the hardening line. The wood is finished with oil and hand sanded to 600 grit with AL Oxide (though it was worn sandpaper, so maybe its finish is the same as 800 grit). I can't tell you the edge angle as I eyeballed it, but it works well. It is thin enough for push cuts in wood, but steep enough to survive bone (maybe 22 degrees). It is a secondary bevel after a flat grind. (Modified Vee Grind is the name for that style. You should check the angle, it's probably thicker at the tip.)

It is a hidden tang blade. The tang is about 3/4in wide and goes all the way through the handle, peined over the brass bit (not shown in pictures). This system has served me pretty well so far, so Im rather fond of it.

I don't really get caught up in specs, but how it works in the field so it didn't really occur to me to add them. Sorry mate.

Thanks for the added info. As a maker (in hiatus at the moment) of knives myself, I appreciate it. I understand the sentiment of how a knife performs in the field as the most important thing, however knowing the specs is good practice for repeatability of a knife that proves to excel itself.
As an aside, I'm a fan of full tangs rather than through tangs (I see their good points all the same) and I absolutely despise rat tail tangs (Useless and weak IMHO). All my knives to date are full tang, though I do plan on doing a through tang one of these days. :-)


Mick

Originally Posted by MickR

Thanks for the added info. As a maker (in hiatus at the moment) of knives myself, I appreciate it. I understand the sentiment of how a knife performs in the field as the most important thing, however knowing the specs is good practice for repeatability of a knife that proves to excel itself.
As an aside, I'm a fan of full tangs rather than through tangs (I see their good points all the same) and I absolutely despise rat tail tangs (Useless and weak IMHO). All my knives to date are full tang, though I do plan on doing a through tang one of these days. :-)


Mick

IMO repeatability is only for selling knives. I am trying to reach a point where I will not need to repeat the same knife as I got it just right. But I do see your point.

And I think full tangs are over built. Through tangs have survived me battoning one through a log with a 3lb drilling hammer, so I don't see the need for more strength. LOL But to each their own, use what works for you and all that.

What the difference between through and full tang?

Also nice little knife. I have a couple but since I started with straights I dont collect them anymore.

A through tang is a tang that is wide and flat but is hidden by the knife handle, for example a 3cm from spine to blade knife may have a tang that is set just high of centre and be 1 cm wide, may or may not taper to the pommel end etc.
A full tang knife has a tang that is the full width of the handle and so you will see the metal as a divider between the handle slabs. I agree with Tenderfoot, in that a full tang may be over built, but at least it won't be the failure point of the knife.
The most common failure point of any knife is usually the point where the tang and the ricasso (rear part of the blade) meet.

A rats tail tang is much narrower than a through tang, is sometimes just a rod welded on to the actual blade, it's a cheap and nasty way to make a knife. It's usually found on cheap knives or knives meant solely for display, but has been known to be used in some better quality knives in rare cases.

Hope you can understand that description.


Mick