Quote Originally Posted by Tenderfoot View Post
It is forged from 1/4in 5160. It is about 3 3/4in long hand sanded to 800 grit and etched in hot vinegar to reveal the hardening line. The wood is finished with oil and hand sanded to 600 grit with AL Oxide (though it was worn sandpaper, so maybe its finish is the same as 800 grit). I can't tell you the edge angle as I eyeballed it, but it works well. It is thin enough for push cuts in wood, but steep enough to survive bone (maybe 22 degrees). It is a secondary bevel after a flat grind. (Modified Vee Grind is the name for that style. You should check the angle, it's probably thicker at the tip.)

It is a hidden tang blade. The tang is about 3/4in wide and goes all the way through the handle, peined over the brass bit (not shown in pictures). This system has served me pretty well so far, so Im rather fond of it.

I don't really get caught up in specs, but how it works in the field so it didn't really occur to me to add them. Sorry mate.


Thanks for the added info. As a maker (in hiatus at the moment) of knives myself, I appreciate it. I understand the sentiment of how a knife performs in the field as the most important thing, however knowing the specs is good practice for repeatability of a knife that proves to excel itself.
As an aside, I'm a fan of full tangs rather than through tangs (I see their good points all the same) and I absolutely despise rat tail tangs (Useless and weak IMHO). All my knives to date are full tang, though I do plan on doing a through tang one of these days. :-)


Mick