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Thread: Antique Gartian razor question

  1. #11
    Jack of all, master of none KenWeir's Avatar
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    I think I will. Once open a time I got it pretty well cleaned up & got past all the pits on the edge. Just need to set the bevel & go.

  2. #12
    The First Cut is the Deepest! Magpie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimothyJames View Post
    Yes Ken, it is neat thinking that this razor may be in it's 3rd century of shaving faces.... Get that old razor you have ready and give it a ride. Band-Aids are cheap and most scars fade with time.

    Magpie, I did tape the back during the heavy honing, I used a very thin Teflon coated tape so it did not increase the adhesion to the stone surface. I probably should have left the tape on it throughout because taking it off changed the bevel half way through...Not smart on my part.
    Tape of the normal variety (standard electric tape) is a much better choice than teflon tape. The "adhesion" to the stone is very minimal, and if you have a wide bevel, it can actually lesson that, as it will raise the blade so less steel is in contact. If you are raising a wire edge while honing, you are applying too much pressure. Dont treat razors like knives when it comes to honing! On a good blade, a single piece of tape, will be enough to set a bevel. on a blade with chips, I have replaced the tape as much as a dozen times before bevel set. Always use a fresh piece of tape for each "set" Fresh piece for the next grit hone so to not risk a stray bit of grit from a courser stone getting in the mix. Eventually, those blades with no real transition from tang to heel begin to wear depressions at the join. Be kind and gentle with your honing so you dont bring about premature wear. Its lasted 200 years, let it last another 5 at least!

  3. #13
    Junior Member TimothyJames's Avatar
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    Sounds like good words, thank you

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    In the olden days razors were honed without tape. Why use tape on this razor?
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

  5. #15
    Junior Member TimothyJames's Avatar
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    I think in the olden days they were just tools to shave with. Now they are precious treasures of times long gone (at least to me they are). Taping protects the razor from excessive wear where it is not necessary as well as preserving the shape. It is a good idea to tape especially when honing out nicks or bringing a dull blade back to shaving sharpness. I think Magpi's advice (even his somewhat caustic humor) is well taken. I will tape her during all of her future hones and any additional oldies if I am fortunate enough to get them.
    JOB15 likes this.

  6. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    Remember that, on a wedgy blade, the edge of the tape closest to the edge defines the angle. Meaning that the tape must be the same distance from the edge on both sides. I usually use two pieces of tape, one per side, to assure that the location if the edges are able to assure the angles are equal.
    ~Richard

  7. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Geezer For This Useful Post:

    MisterClean (12-08-2016), TimothyJames (12-08-2016)

  8. #17
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Tim, how fine a hone do you have, most knives top off where razor begin?

    And yes do use at least a layer of tape, maybe 2 to start.

    You will want to use a Rolling X stroke to hone the whole blade and blend the edge. Check the Library and there are several good YouTube videos.

    Nice find, Welcome.

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    TimothyJames (12-08-2016)

  10. #18
    Junior Member TimothyJames's Avatar
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    Thanks to both Geezer and Euclid for the input. One of the reasons I use the tape that I am using, a 1/4" wide Teflon backed tape is it is easier to get straight on the blade, one strip on each side. That is a good point about the edge of the tape defining the angle. I will remember that. As for the hones I use, for the razor if it is really dull and has nicks, I start with an Arkansas hard, about 1200 on the Norton scale, I move up to 8000 then use compounds to 15000 then strop. Does that sound right? It seems to me anytime you are having to grind out nicks it takes a more coarse stone than I would normally use. When I am doing a refresh I start with 3000 and go up.

  11. #19
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    That will work, what compound are you using?

    Some can be harsh even at high grits.

  12. #20
    Junior Member TimothyJames's Avatar
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    I don't have them here right now, but I think the red one is a jewelers rough at .5 micron and the other is a 1 micron but I am guessing. I also have some iron oxide that is pretty fine. I use stuff like that I use at work to polish metal samples for microscopy examination on the SEM. That is my 8 hour a day hobby that pays the bills.

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