Thread: Restoring an old straight razor

Thanks all! Your information and tips have been very helpful, and after reading through it all, online research, you tube, etc. this is What I think I wanna do:
Use CLR for initial rust/tarnish removing.
Then, if necessary, sand off any remaining imperfections using very high grit silicon carbide sandpaper by hand. (Or use micro mesh instead of sandpaper. Whichever will NOT leave scratch marks. What is the better option??) the last step would be to use flitz polish to make shine like new.
What do you guys think?
And again, which would be better for keeping the blade scratch free? sandpaper or micro mesh? It will be done by hand btw. No machines or wheels or anything.

Good luck on no scratching.

Originally Posted by Charliebrian24

Thanks all! Your information and tips have been very helpful, and after reading through it all, online research, you tube, etc. this is What I think I wanna do:
Use CLR for initial rust/tarnish removing.
Then, if necessary, sand off any remaining imperfections using very high grit silicon carbide sandpaper by hand. (Or use micro mesh instead of sandpaper. Whichever will NOT leave scratch marks. What is the better option??) the last step would be to use flitz polish to make shine like new.
What do you guys think?
And again, which would be better for keeping the blade scratch free? sandpaper or micro mesh? It will be done by hand btw. No machines or wheels or anything.

Whenever you are using an abrasive, the potential for scratches is there. Just be prepared to take your time (possibly plenty of it) and move gradually up through the grits to remove whatever scratches are left behind by the previous grit.

Start with a higher grit than you expect to need. I.e. if you reckon 320 will do, try 600 or 800. You can always go back down to a coarser grit if needed, but starting higher may work, and it will reduce scratching, if not eliminate it.

As for micromesh vs sandpaper, I use both. Starting with quite high grit wet/dry sandpaper, then moving to micromesh at the end. I use these things:

Micro-Mesh® Pen-Sanding Pads - Lee Valley Tools

When I stock up, I'll usually get a selection rather than the whole range. It ends up being 1500 and 12000 for sure, with a couple in between. Seems to work well.

Also, remember that although not shave-ready, that thing will still do quite a bit of damage if you're not careful. Take your time for your own sake as well as for the razor.

It's a fantastic Boker blade, so probably best you don't try to clean it up at all. It's beyond repair. Best you send it to me to dispose of safely!

Seriously, the blade doesn't look like it needs too much attention. Start with low grit wet and dry, say, 440 grit on the tang. Then just go up the grits in steady stages up to maybe 2500 or higher. Start with the tang and you'll get an idea of which grit to use on the blade itself. Autosol polish is good. It's made in Solingen, so I suspect it's been used for razors before being used on cars. Be prepared to invest a lot of time into this project. Don't rush. It'll be worth it. It's a beauty.

What scales are you going to use?

Keep us updated with your progress and post photos.

I guess your talking about mine... Being I posted the only pics.
That was the progress....
Quick and easy!!
It was posted in SOTD today.

Wayne394 I'm using the original scales (I think) I believe they are Bakelite material because the black faded to a brownish color when I was cleaning the blade after bringing it home. Pshhh. Sucks. I did make them black again however by using magic marker... Doesn't look bad but fortunately I learned Bakelite scales can be sanded to bring back the original color, so that too is an additional job for this project

Originally Posted by Charliebrian24

Wayne394 I'm using the original scales (I think) I believe they are Bakelite material because the black faded to a brownish color when I was cleaning the blade after bringing it home

Just as a point of interest, that would be "Vulcanite" And yup, as you noticed, you can get the color back with some buffing/polishing. It CAN be brittle though, so try not to squeeze it hard in the center of the scales.

Can I do this with the razor still attached? I would prefer to do it that way because taking it apart, I'd be worried I'd do irreversible damage... What do you think?
Oh, by the way, this is my razor.

Yes . but be careful

Originally Posted by outback

Yes . but be careful

I second that & you can use Maas, Mothers or Flitz. I hand polish scales & it works great. One day I will get a soft wheel for my buffer & try it but my hand polishing works just fine for now.

I usually open my razor straight open where the tail is inside the scales. I then put some polish on a soft rag & go back & forth quite a few times & then I get a clean soft rag & polish it off. You will be amazed at how it looks. Wipe off any excess polish that might have gotten inside the scales & you're good to go.