Thread: I have a sharp fetish

It sounds to me like you nailed it already! You have been given good advice but if you are already happy with what you are shaving with then shave on! The rest is icing on the cake. You are right, many techniques cross over from knives to razors. It is still different but it sounds like you are on a fast track. Congrats! I also love the honing aspect. Knives and razors and hatchets and axes and...and....and....

Originally Posted by Steel

It sounds to me like you nailed it already! You have been given good advice but if you are already happy with what you are shaving with then shave on! The rest is icing on the cake. You are right, many techniques cross over from knives to razors. It is still different but it sounds like you are on a fast track. Congrats! I also love the honing aspect. Knives and razors and hatchets and axes and...and....and....

I bet your lawn has the most cleanly cut blades of grass.

Well it did. Then I sharpened my sod cutter and.....

So, the vast majority of shaving and edge issues are directly caused by a lack of a fully set or damaged edge.

You cannot polish an edge, that does not exist. As said TPT, or just looking at it straight down with magnification will tell you if the edge is fully set. A harsh edge is usually a microchipped edge.

And if you use a knife sharpening technique, like razing a burr you intentionally create a jagged edge. If the edge is not honed or jointed straight, you may fight it all the way and never get a smooth, straight edge or if you do it may fail after a few stropping.

Naturals cannot be grit rated and your natural of the same type and mine may be completely different, from the one cut before or after.

If you base your progression on claimed grit, you may not be moving finer in progression. We generally advise new razor honers, to start with a full synthetic progression and learn to hone razors, then move to naturals. With a knife a bit of grit deviation or a micro chipped edge may not matter that much or even improve the cutting edge, but not with a razor.

Making the process as simple and foolproof as possible will save you lots of frustration and speed the learning process, accepting that there is a big difference in honing skills and tools between knives and razors, for some is the hardest part.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

So, the vast majority of shaving and edge issues are directly caused by a lack of a fully set or damaged edge.

You cannot polish an edge, that does not exist. As said TPT, or just looking at it straight down with magnification will tell you if the edge is fully set. A harsh edge is usually a microchipped edge.

And if you use a knife sharpening technique, like razing a burr you intentionally create a jagged edge. If the edge is not honed or jointed straight, you may fight it all the way and never get a smooth, straight edge or if you do it may fail after a few stropping.

Naturals cannot be grit rated and your natural of the same type and mine may be completely different, from the one cut before or after.

If you base your progression on claimed grit, you may not be moving finer in progression. We generally advise new razor honers, to start with a full synthetic progression and learn to hone razors, then move to naturals. With a knife a bit of grit deviation or a micro chipped edge may not matter that much or even improve the cutting edge, but not with a razor.

Making the process as simple and foolproof as possible will save you lots of frustration and speed the learning process, accepting that there is a big difference in honing skills and tools between knives and razors, for some is the hardest part.

I agree with most you said. I spent a lot of my time on the 5k removing the scratch pattern left by the 1k king and natural aoto. I found the biggest issue was I had a very slight wire edge. Most of the razor looked good, but some spots definitely had folded. I confirmed this by stropping and the full edge returned, well actually the wire edge.

Went back to the yaginoshima asagi with hakka tomo and gave around 40 strokes. then stropped the razor on loaded .25 micron horse at a slighter steeper angle (micro bevel). Gave an awesome shave and no deterioration of edge which means no irritation.

But I would say honing a razor is still extremely like honing a high end Jknifes. I used the same stones and employ similar techniques. Differences being strokes and pressure. Most of my knives are sharpened around 10 degrees per side. Some are hollow ground, some are flat grinds, some are chisel ground. I would say all of them are as hard if not harder then the Dovo. White and blue steels can take crazy edges.

Yup, exactly the same… but different.

You have to remember the goals are completely different. You’re not shaving your face, every day with your high end knives and your vegies and meat don’t scream when you cut them with a micro chipped edge.

Getting to sharp is easy, comfort is a whole other pile of stones… and with razors, the more you know, the more you learn, there is always more…

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Yup, exactly the same… but different.

You have to remember the goals are completely different. You’re not shaving your face, every day with your high end knives and your vegies and meat don’t scream when you cut them with a micro chipped edge.

Getting to sharp is easy, comfort is a whole other pile of stones… and with razors, the more you know, the more you learn, there is always more…

I stand by they are extremely similar. I bought 0 extra hones when I bought a razor. I have everything I need. Every stone I have is already perfect for a razor. I even strop my knives on the same leather with .25 micron abrasive.

The goals are the same. My edges on my knives are as keen, and pass the same tests as my razor. The only one that does't is a nakiri my wife bought me made from vg10 which is inferior to shirogami steel.

I don't know why you need to argue to point they are different. It's like arguing sharpening a concave ground gyuto is different then sharpening a yanagiba, usuba, or funayuki. They are but the exact same concept applies, and they are not worlds apart.

Honing isn't rocket science and there are plenty of ways to skin the proverbial cat.

Originally Posted by 86azms3

I stand by they are extremely similar. I bought 0 extra hones when I bought a razor. I have everything I need. Every stone I have is already perfect for a razor. I even strop my knives on the same leather with .25 micron abrasive.

The goals are the same. My edges on my knives are as keen, and pass the same tests as my razor. The only one that does't is a nakiri my wife bought me made from vg10 which is inferior to shirogami steel.

I don't know why you need to argue to point they are different. It's like arguing sharpening a concave ground gyuto is different then sharpening a yanagiba, usuba, or funayuki. They are but the exact same concept applies, and they are not worlds apart.

Honing isn't rocket science and there are plenty of ways to skin the proverbial cat.

Yup, nuff said enjoy your shaves.

Bob

"Yeah I'm trying to find the sweet spot. While the .25 micron was crazy sharp. It wasn't as comfortable coming off the natural with hakka tomo."

Just trying to help, you, with your harshness issue.

Wow my kitchen knives do just fine at 1000 grit and maybe some leather, none of my vegetables have ever complained that they wernt sharp enough, not splitting atoms with a kitchen knife. Why not just use a feather DX with the super pro blades to cut your tomatoes? Tc