Thread: Hi from Virginia

As you can see from the photos I took of it, it practically has a double frown and the edge and spine are both a little warped.

This was a brand new razor sold as shave-ready.

They are supposedly sending me a new one of better quality (a totally different model from the one I ordered) to try and make good.

If it was just a $20 razor that would be one thing, but when this razor is not on sale they sell them for $99.99

Oh, yea, that is just a hot mess going on over there.

Oh, great googly moogley. At least you've got a letter opener now.

CPCohen,

If nothing else, PM me, and I'll send you a good razor to start out with. I've loaned this particular razor to a few other guys starting out, and they've all gotten on quite well with it. i'd only ask you cover shipping. Otherwise, I'll hone it back up to snuff and send it to you. From Alexandria to NN, should only take one or two days...

Bill

Originally Posted by LegalBeagle

CPCohen,

If nothing else, PM me, and I'll send you a good razor to start out with. I've loaned this particular razor to a few other guys starting out, and they've all gotten on quite well with it. i'd only ask you cover shipping. Otherwise, I'll hone it back up to snuff and send it to you. From Alexandria to NN, should only take one or two days...

Bill

I really appreciate the offer and I might take you up on it in a few weeks. I think what I'd really like to do is peek through a bunch of the local antique shops and a couple flea markets to see if I can't find something that speaks to me and send it off to get honed. If I end up empty handed I will definitely get hold of you about the loaner to see if I'm going to get into it enough to snag a sight unseen special and then maybe accumulate a small working collection as I grow (as is typical of my hobbies).

You guys are great, thank you

Not a problem, CP. If nothing else, when you find that razor, send it my way and I'll hone it for you...

Not particularly surprised to see the blade in such a condition. I am curious to see how the "high-end" razor looks.

What set my suspicions off originally, when I saw the site, was there no maker's marks visible on the tang. Just a rather ugly "inlay." The way I saw it, if no one wanted to stamp anything on the thing (or simply set a name to it), they were ashamed of its overall quality.

Now, if they were selling this for $100 (which I rather doubt. I bet it's *always* on sale), and you can get a very nice, pre-honed Dovo Best Quality for $75... well, I know where my money would go.

EDIT: I should mention, as always, your mileage may vary.

Originally Posted by Jinxt

I really appreciate the offer and I might take you up on it in a few weeks. I think what I'd really like to do is peek through a bunch of the local antique shops and a couple flea markets to see if I can't find something that speaks to me and send it off to get honed. If I end up empty handed I will definitely get hold of you about the loaner to see if I'm going to get into it enough to snag a sight unseen special and then maybe accumulate a small working collection as I grow (as is typical of my hobbies).

Hello Jinxt, and welcome. There can be good stuff in antique stores, but sometimes it needs a really close look. Review the razors section on our Wiki, and it sounds like you've now seen our razors to avoid list.

The main issue I watch for (besides obvious things like closes centered, no big chips, scales aren't rotting) is micropitting along the edge. Take along a good magnifier (mine's a 10x Baush & Lomb Hastings triplet) and inspect the edge for tiny pits. They're usually in clusters, and make the metal look like Swiss cheese. If they're along the actual edge or even close to the bevel, ditch that blade. Sometimes you can hone them out, but it's a bad risk. They extend into the metal like a tiny cave network.

You may see areas of pitting where the blade touches the scales. Here it's more a cosmetic problem that a little sanding can fix. Rust on the blade isn't a big crisis, unless it's bad along the edge and/or flakes off in red chunks. Again, you can sand it.

Celluloid rot can be a dramatic condition to find. You'll see a very localized rusting on the blade that matches a deterioration of the scale's inner surface. The celluloid scale is breaking down and releasing either acetic or nitric acid vapor, depending on how it was made. You can rescue these blades, as long as the damage isn't at an edge. First thing to do, though, is get the scales off and throw them away. They're like bad apples; cell rot in one scale can trigger it in other scales stored nearby. For an exciting kick, take the scales out to your sidewalk and light them on fire. Wear sunglasses; it's one bright flame!

Old horn scales can get worm tracks in them, too. I've got one blade that had some worm-associated rust on it, but a little worm slime doesn't do much damage.

I hope you make some lucky finds. If you see something you like, you can post pics here and folks can tell you if it's a good blade or not. Include any stamps on the tang in your pics. We cannot counsel you on price/value; that's one of the big rules here. You can also just type the razor name into the search box up in the right corner and see if it's been discussed here. That's how I made my own first well-informed antique razor purchase--though it was not my first ever antique razor purchase

Good luck and best wishes.

This is some great info to know. Thanks for putting out there.

Originally Posted by roughkype

Hello Jinxt, and welcome. There can be good stuff in antique stores, but sometimes it needs a really close look. Review the razors section on our Wiki, and it sounds like you've now seen our razors to avoid list.

The main issue I watch for (besides obvious things like closes centered, no big chips, scales aren't rotting) is micropitting along the edge. Take along a good magnifier (mine's a 10x Baush & Lomb Hastings triplet) and inspect the edge for tiny pits. They're usually in clusters, and make the metal look like Swiss cheese. If they're along the actual edge or even close to the bevel, ditch that blade. Sometimes you can hone them out, but it's a bad risk. They extend into the metal like a tiny cave network.

You may see areas of pitting where the blade touches the scales. Here it's more a cosmetic problem that a little sanding can fix. Rust on the blade isn't a big crisis, unless it's bad along the edge and/or flakes off in red chunks. Again, you can sand it.

Celluloid rot can be a dramatic condition to find. You'll see a very localized rusting on the blade that matches a deterioration of the scale's inner surface. The celluloid scale is breaking down and releasing either acetic or nitric acid vapor, depending on how it was made. You can rescue these blades, as long as the damage isn't at an edge. First thing to do, though, is get the scales off and throw them away. They're like bad apples; cell rot in one scale can trigger it in other scales stored nearby. For an exciting kick, take the scales out to your sidewalk and light them on fire. Wear sunglasses; it's one bright flame!

Old horn scales can get worm tracks in them, too. I've got one blade that had some worm-associated rust on it, but a little worm slime doesn't do much damage.

I hope you make some lucky finds. If you see something you like, you can post pics here and folks can tell you if it's a good blade or not. Include any stamps on the tang in your pics. We cannot counsel you on price/value; that's one of the big rules here. You can also just type the razor name into the search box up in the right corner and see if it's been discussed here. That's how I made my own first well-informed antique razor purchase--though it was not my first ever antique razor purchase

Good luck and best wishes.