Thread: New Straight Shaver

Originally Posted by Shug

Took two days off from the straight and used my DE. Went back to the straight tonight and it seems like my razor burn gets worse with every shave with the straight. I'm using light pressure and have a good lather. Hoping it starts to get better soon. My face is killing me.

. . . Are you using the Whipped Dog razor?

. . . How much stropping are you doing between shaves?

Charles

PS -- You might have a problem with razor angle, or you might be using too much pressure. "Razor burn" means you're taking off a layer of skin. If your lather is good, that's only possible if you're pressing on the blade. With correct (extremely light) pressure, the lather will protect your skin from the edge of the razor.

Unless you are shaving with a cheese grater, razor burn is always a result of too much pressure. You almost literally cannot use too little pressure if you have a sharp blade.

I'm using the whipped dog razor. It is a Hinckels 415. I'll keep trying and try not to use pressure. Does anybody know anything about Broker King Cutter 5/8? Thinking about getting one of those. That or a DOVO. They are both priced close to the same at Straight Razor Designs. And I've been doing 20 laps on the canvas, and 50 on the leather.

I have the Dovo -- it's fine. The Boker should be equally good. They're both "basic razors" -- simple scales, no fancy ornamentation -- but good steel, properly tempered and ground, and (from SRD) they should be sharp.

20 canvas / 50 leather should be enough to keep the edge keen.

I agree with the previous post -- if you have razor burn, you're using too much pressure. That _could_ be because your razor is dull. Larry has a good reputation; your stropping might be a little off. Especially if your shaves are getting worse, as you strop more.

Charles

Hi, welcome. You need to get the technique down before you fork out more dollars on another razor. It sounds like it's not the tool it's the tradesman. From what I've read you were doing two passes on maybe your second shave with a straight? I think that's too much too soon. Obviously you're not new to 'wet shaving' as you mention a DE. Take it really, really slowly, watch a heap of videos, do only one pass for quite a while until it's a perfect 'razor burn free' single pass (maybe more than a month), and don't forget to strop, stropping is REALLY important (make sure the stropping is 'correct', i.e. don't 'roll the edge' etc).

You know, a repeated theme on this site is about pressure. I'm not sure how many times I've seen the statement "I didn't really know what NO pressure meant...". No pressure really does mean no pressure, and short, overlapping strokes.

Good luck, and good on you for taking the plunge. I love the way you started by saying "Just got my first razor the other day". You didn't say "first straight", you said "first razor", and you're 100% correct, the plastic things aren't razors. They're plastic things.

Had a great shave last night. I made 2 passes on my cheecks, WTG and AGT and no burn. My neck still needs a little work. I only did 1 WTG pass, wasn't satisfied with it, so instead of tearing my neck up, I finished my neck and chin with my DE. But my cheecks were pretty smooth with no irritation. Going to continue with my 1 pass on my neck and chin till I can get it smooth before I try another. Also got some Prorasso shave cream and pre/post shave balm in today. Can't wait to use it. I've been getting really dry skin around my chin and lip, like ashy dry. I think it's the soap so I wanted to try some cream. We'll see how it works in the moring when I get off from work and take a shower.

Just a thought:

. . . Rub a little hair conditioner into the dry skin, before applying lather. Leave a bit on the surface. Or try some pre-shave oil (commercial mix, or olive / walnut / almond oil from the kitchen.)

It might help with the dry skin, as well as helping with the shave.

charles

The Proraso pre/post cream (the one in the little tub) is excellent stuff. I use it only as a pre shave cream (which is what is says it is on the tub, but the web site markets it as pre and post) as for me it's too oily for a post shave cream. For you, with the dry skin issue, it may be just the thing. I use the Proraso liquid cream after shave as a post shave cream, it's thinner and for me more easily absorbed.
Is the Proraso shave cream in a tub or tube? The one in the tub is like 1/2 way between a cream and a soap. It's excellent stuff, though, whatever way you look at it.

It might be worth JUST using the cream post shave (if you normally use a AS) or getting a mild non alcohol based AS (if you normally use a alcohol based one). I've just started using Dominica Bay Rum and Pinaud Clubman. Though they ARE alcohol based (and they sting really nicely) they also seem to condition my skin really nicely. I think you could really use just the Proraso liquid cream after shave as a AS without any need for anything else.

The Proraso pre/post shave cream was like a slice of heaven landed on my face. I think I put too much on pre shave, but that gave it time to work as I stropped my razor and got my water good and hot. The shaving cream is in the tube. I screwed up the lather by using too much water. Had to dump it out and start over. It doesn't smell all that great, but it is a great blade lube. Got 2 passes done with no pain, down stroke and up stroke. After I put just a touch of the pre cream on and it felt great. Soothed my face and kept it hydrated all day. But I've noticed a problem I'm having. Going up on my neck and beard (ATG) the blade doesn't glide over my skin. It kinda skips a little but. I stretch my skin and try to change blade angles, but no luck. And the shaving cream is still moist. Ant suggestions?

Hi Shug,
I normally wet my face with hot water, and then apply the pre-shave. It sits on my face as I make my lather. I then lather my face straight over top of it and the lather sits on my face as I strop; softening my beard. I strop 30/70, so it sits there for I suppose for maybe a minute or two. I make the lather in a bowl, and dribble just a bit of water from my finger tips in; a little at a time. I shake the brush gently (after soaking it) exactly three times. I make sure I flick the water off my fingers after dribbling water into the bowl as I don't want any extra dribbling down the brush into the bowl. I think it's a very fine line between too dry and too wet.

In regards to skipping, I feel this is common. Going ATG is really quite difficult. For the ATG I add a tad more water to the lather, I like it wetter for the ATG pass. I also use REALLY short strokes for the ATG; and there are some parts (like right under my chin) that I really can't do a ATG on. Oh, also, for the ATG, use an even narrower angle, i.e. spine closer to the face.

It sounds like you're really getting the hang of it; keep it up!