Thread: New - Introducing Myself

Originally Posted by ryryrecords

Hi there,

Anyways, I purchased a beginner's kit. I have a 5/8 Dovo Razor, a 2" strop, best badger brush, a shave cream and a shave soap, styptic pencil, etc., etc.

I spent a lot of money on the kit without trying it out first. I could use a lot of help because at a week in I have to admit my face looks like spaghetti (from cuts). If anyone is looking for someone to mentor, I'd love to have a mentor!!

I've watched dozens of youtube videos and I even read a 40 page PDF book on straight shaving. I'm familiar with fundamentals such as the 30 degree rule and the importance of face prep and aftercare (although I still need to upgrade my aftershave).

So basically, I'm just at a frustration point where I find there are certain parts of the face that aren't very difficult, but there are certain parts that are. I find that the cuts come from either a lack of concentration and I put the razor against the skin at a wrong angle or i will be shaving and the razor bumps along my skin and then digs in.

Any help would be appreciated.

Ryan

FWIW (after eveyone else has had their say) --

The kit sounds fine.

a) You cannot afford a "lack of concentration" when using a straight razor. If you're rushed, if you're preoccupied, if you're really tired -- use something else for the shave. It's _not_ a cartridge razor, or a DE; there are no training wheels.

b) There's no real "30 degree rule". What I have found that works:

. . . . Hold the blade flat against your skin, and start a slow stroke;

. . . . Raise the spine until the edge just starts to cut your beard. That's the right angle to use.

. . . The angle will be flatter going ATG and XTG, than going WTG.

c) "the razor bumps along my skin and then digs in." This _could_ be:

. . . . a slightly-dull blade, or

. . . . . not enough skin-stretching, or

. . . . a beard that needs more pre-shave prep -- hot shower, hot towel, or something else to soften it a bit more.

What can happen with a slightly-dull blade is that you apply more pressure, and make the angle larger, to force it to cut beard. But with that much pressure, and that increased angle, it's happy to cut skin.

When you don't stretch your skin, the pressure of the razor's edge lifts a ridge of skin in front of the edge. That happens even more, if you're pressing on the blade. The angle between the edge, and that ridge, is larger than you think it is. And the razor digs in.

I suggest that you forget about ATG and XTG passes, until you get a solid, "no-cuts" WTG system worked out. Good pre-shave prep, a sharp edge, and very very very light pressure on the blade should help.

Two questions:

. . . How many laps are you stropping between shaves?

. . . What's your pre-shave prep?

Charles

PS -- the thing that separates "beginner shaver" from "expert shaver" is that the expert has made _all_ the beginner mistakes, and doesn't make them any more. At least, not often.<g>

Originally Posted by cpcohen1945

FWIW (after eveyone else has had their say) --

The kit sounds fine.

a) You cannot afford a "lack of concentration" when using a straight razor. If you're rushed, if you're preoccupied, if you're really tired -- use something else for the shave. It's _not_ a cartridge razor, or a DE; there are no training wheels.

b) There's no real "30 degree rule". What I have found that works:

. . . . Hold the blade flat against your skin, and start a slow stroke;

. . . . Raise the spine until the edge just starts to cut your beard. That's the right angle to use.

. . . The angle will be flatter going ATG and XTG, than going WTG.

c) "the razor bumps along my skin and then digs in." This _could_ be:

. . . . a slightly-dull blade, or

. . . . . not enough skin-stretching, or

. . . . a beard that needs more pre-shave prep -- hot shower, hot towel, or something else to soften it a bit more.

What can happen with a slightly-dull blade is that you apply more pressure, and make the angle larger, to force it to cut beard. But with that much pressure, and that increased angle, it's happy to cut skin.

When you don't stretch your skin, the pressure of the razor's edge lifts a ridge of skin in front of the edge. That happens even more, if you're pressing on the blade. The angle between the edge, and that ridge, is larger than you think it is. And the razor digs in.

I suggest that you forget about ATG and XTG passes, until you get a solid, "no-cuts" WTG system worked out. Good pre-shave prep, a sharp edge, and very very very light pressure on the blade should help.

Two questions:

. . . How many laps are you stropping between shaves?

. . . What's your pre-shave prep?

Charles

PS -- the thing that separates "beginner shaver" from "expert shaver" is that the expert has made _all_ the beginner mistakes, and doesn't make them any more. At least, not often.<g>

Thanks for your tips, I'll address your questions to me first:

Pre-shave Prep: Hot water splashed on my face for around 4 or 5 minutes, sometimes I wet a towel with the hot water and hot it against my shave area. Near the end I rub the hot water into my growth. I then soak my brush for 2 minutes in really hot water in the sink. I work up a lather in my cup with (currently using) Colonel Conk's Bay Rum Glycerine shave soap. I work it until the lather is meringue like but still bubbles and water in it. I brush in multiple directions to raise the hair. I find I re-lather a lot whilst shaving because the lather or my skin drys out. I find a hot wet blade and hot wet skin make the razor glide smoother... when it drys up then the razor just bumps along a lot.

Stropping: As for stropping, I do about the minimum of 30 round trips. My stropping technique isn't great, sometimes I go too quickly and I am not as accurate as if I go slow, but I've read that slow stropping is a problem in and of itself (although I've also read that it doesn't matter... care to weigh in?)

I know what you mean about the angle. Some of the best strokes of the razor have started out with me laying the razor flat and starting downward and adjusting the angle to start cutting the hair. I should do this more often because it is very dilerbate and most cuts start at the start of a stroke.

I have been neglectful to stretch the skin. This is probably why I have the bumping. I never thought of it how you explained it. That makes sense that if there is pressure on the blade it would make unstretched skin more likely for a cut or bump along. I will start the stretching.

And I like your point about concentrating. 80% of my cuts happen in moments when my eyes somewhat glaze over and I'm overly confident. If I concentrate the worst I'll get are little nicks in hard areas (round the nose).

I've also bought a new after-shave balm. I was using a really cheap after-shave balm by Gillette that was very drying. I went for a Nivea after-shave balm that's alcohol free until I can afford a premium balm from my shave store at the end of the month.

Thanks for your advice... I'll focus just on WTG for a while. I know that they say it takes 30 days for your face to adjust to a new system. I will give it that long before attempting the other.

Ryan

P.S.
If anyone wants to recommend some after treatment I'd love some ideas as to what you really like. I will be ordering from the store that I linked to above on page 1 so that's my selection. I have also given some thought to using witchhazel as I saw some barbers on youtube using it.

Originally Posted by syslight

Welcome to SRP!
as for a mentor... it would help to know where in Canada you are, it is a big country... there are users on here from all over Canada, well most of the cities at least.

enjoy,
jim

That is all part of the ploy my friend... %90 of Canadians live within 30 miles of the U.S. border.. Coincidence?... I don't think so... They are massing for the strike!

Oh yea, Welcome! plenty of guys here to help you get started too! Good bunch of fellows with a lot of knowledge.

Originally Posted by Wintchase

That is all part of the ploy my friend... %90 of Canadians live within 30 miles of the U.S. border.. Coincidence?... I don't think so... They are massing for the strike!

I know it is part of their ploy to invade... "operation maple syrup!" i used to live a couple miles south of the ny/ canada border near Rouses Pt...

personally i fill my lathering mug with hot water before my shower and let my brush soak while i shower
the conk soap does dry out quickly you might want to try adding a few drops of glycerin to it it will help with the lather and moisturizing the face ... witch hazel helps keep the burn down especially if you are going to use an alcohol based aftershave.

jim

My thoughts:

1. Strop _slowly_, and do a good job. Don't raise the spine off the strop when you flip the razor. Hold the strop pretty tight, and put just a little pressure on the cutting edge of the razor. NOT MUCH PRESSURE! There's a good YouTube video that demonstrates "flip technique" -- you can probably find it as fast as I can.

2. I found that 40 laps wasn't enough; I'm using 50 laps now, and getting better results. "Lap" = up and down.

3. I don't use any after-shave products at all, so can't help you on that score. But I would avoid anything with alcohol in it. Try an aftershave "balm", or use Vaseline "Intensive Care" lotion (not my idea -- another member recommended it).

4. You might benefit from a pre-shave product, put on your face _sparingly_ just before you put on lather and start shaving. I have used almond oil, hair conditioner, Astroglide, and glycerin. They all help the razor glide a little better. Other people have had good luck with Proraso pre-shave oil.

It sounds like you have typical startup problems. As you try different things, you'll find out what works _for you_, and what doesn't.

Charles

Question about shaving:

I hold my razor in my right hand and it works great for shaving up and down on my one cheek. I use the same holding position on the other side of my face but have shave more from the sides, on an angle. Should I be switching hands?

All the suggestions have helped. I did a WTG shave this morning and stretched the skin, which especially helped to do my chin.

After I did two passes with my gillette and my face is very smooth, no nicks. I was very careful and I stropped a bit more than usual in my prep.

And yes, I switched to an after-shave balm. The one made by Nivea. It is alcohol free which was a big selling point for me. It seems to be a nice step up from what I had although I'll likely get a premium after-balm soon. I also was thinking of getting some pre-shave oil... gotta watch the wallet though :-)

Ryan

Question about shaving:

I hold my razor in my right hand and it works great for shaving up and down on my one cheek. I use the same holding position on the other side of my face but have shave more from the sides, on an angle. Should I be switching hands?

All the suggestions have helped. I did a WTG shave this morning and stretched the skin, which especially helped to do my chin.

After I did two passes with my gillette and my face is very smooth, no nicks. I was very careful and I stropped a bit more than usual in my prep.

And yes, I switched to an after-shave balm. The one made by Nivea. It is alcohol free which was a big selling point for me. It seems to be a nice step up from what I had although I'll likely get a premium after-balm soon. I also was thinking of getting some pre-shave oil... gotta watch the wallet though :-)

Ryan

Originally Posted by ryryrecords

Question about shaving:

I hold my razor in my right hand and it works great for shaving up and down on my one cheek. I use the same holding position on the other side of my face but have shave more from the sides, on an angle. Should I be switching hands?

All the suggestions have helped. I did a WTG shave this morning and stretched the skin, which especially helped to do my chin.

After I did two passes with my gillette and my face is very smooth, no nicks. I was very careful and I stropped a bit more than usual in my prep.

And yes, I switched to an after-shave balm. The one made by Nivea. It is alcohol free which was a big selling point for me. It seems to be a nice step up from what I had although I'll likely get a premium after-balm soon. I also was thinking of getting some pre-shave oil... gotta watch the wallet though :-)

Ryan

That's kind of a YMMV question...I think i would say, if you CAN learn to switch hands, do it. but there are lots of guys who don't...
I think recommended "best practices" would say it's best to learn to switch hands.

Also, this might be helpful if you haven't read it yet: Different ways to hold a straight razor - Straight Razor Place Wiki

regarding preshave oil...it's not an oil (and not as messy) but it's hard to go wrong with proraso preshave cream at $11-$13...i use the green tea aloe because the regular is just too much menthol for me.

cheers

The question of switching hands is a matter of comfort. I am extremely dominant with my left hand and used to switch hands in the beginning, but in the end I chose to stick with my left and eventually, I got better and better with shaving the side of my face that is most problematic. A lot of people will tell you to switch hands, there are Benefits to this, and you will eventually become proficient with both hands while shaving, but I find one handed shaving is just fine for me too. Experiment with different ways of holding the razor and you will find what is best for you! Also, I find beard mapping to be crucial as well for this, that is how you will develops what angle and position is best for you, be it one handed or both hands. Lastly, I also recently purchased my first double edge and have discovered the pros to owning one of those as well. It really helps in those problem spots for touch ups where I cannot get my straight's angle to be just right. Good luck!