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    Quote Originally Posted by ryryrecords View Post
    Hi there,

    Anyways, I purchased a beginner's kit. I have a 5/8 Dovo Razor, a 2" strop, best badger brush, a shave cream and a shave soap, styptic pencil, etc., etc.

    I spent a lot of money on the kit without trying it out first. I could use a lot of help because at a week in I have to admit my face looks like spaghetti (from cuts). If anyone is looking for someone to mentor, I'd love to have a mentor!!

    I've watched dozens of youtube videos and I even read a 40 page PDF book on straight shaving. I'm familiar with fundamentals such as the 30 degree rule and the importance of face prep and aftercare (although I still need to upgrade my aftershave).

    So basically, I'm just at a frustration point where I find there are certain parts of the face that aren't very difficult, but there are certain parts that are. I find that the cuts come from either a lack of concentration and I put the razor against the skin at a wrong angle or i will be shaving and the razor bumps along my skin and then digs in.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Ryan
    FWIW (after eveyone else has had their say) --

    The kit sounds fine.

    a) You cannot afford a "lack of concentration" when using a straight razor. If you're rushed, if you're preoccupied, if you're really tired -- use something else for the shave. It's _not_ a cartridge razor, or a DE; there are no training wheels.

    b) There's no real "30 degree rule". What I have found that works:

    . . . . Hold the blade flat against your skin, and start a slow stroke;

    . . . . Raise the spine until the edge just starts to cut your beard. That's the right angle to use.

    . . . The angle will be flatter going ATG and XTG, than going WTG.

    c) "the razor bumps along my skin and then digs in." This _could_ be:

    . . . . a slightly-dull blade, or

    . . . . . not enough skin-stretching, or

    . . . . a beard that needs more pre-shave prep -- hot shower, hot towel, or something else to soften it a bit more.

    What can happen with a slightly-dull blade is that you apply more pressure, and make the angle larger, to force it to cut beard. But with that much pressure, and that increased angle, it's happy to cut skin.

    When you don't stretch your skin, the pressure of the razor's edge lifts a ridge of skin in front of the edge. That happens even more, if you're pressing on the blade. The angle between the edge, and that ridge, is larger than you think it is. And the razor digs in.

    I suggest that you forget about ATG and XTG passes, until you get a solid, "no-cuts" WTG system worked out. Good pre-shave prep, a sharp edge, and very very very light pressure on the blade should help.

    Two questions:

    . . . How many laps are you stropping between shaves?

    . . . What's your pre-shave prep?

    Charles

    PS -- the thing that separates "beginner shaver" from "expert shaver" is that the expert has made _all_ the beginner mistakes, and doesn't make them any more. At least, not often.<g>
    LameBMX likes this.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to cpcohen1945 For This Useful Post:

    ryryrecords (05-14-2012)

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