Thread: Greetings Everyone

Hello, I'm Jordan. I just started straight razor shaving (shavette shaving actually) this past week. I have no problems with cartridge razors. My sole motivation for switching to straight razors is simply because it's a lot of fun to me.

Anywho, things are going semi-ok, and by that I mean I don't need skin grafts after I finish my shave. The people are right when they say the shavettes are unforgiving, but I don't mind learning with an unforgiving instrument, all the more reason to learn what youre doing the proper way I have two shavettes: the parker one and then a generic shavette (I think the model is the ustura) that came with a pack of derby blades (I see this ustura model being used by many barbers in random youtube vids). The parker one is definitely well made with a bit more heft to it, but the ustura model has a longer tang which I really like. Both hold the blade securely but it's real tricky to get the blade into the ustura model since it slides into extremely snug slots that you can barely fit dental floss through.

I ordered the van der hagen starter set that came with a boars hair brush, dish, and bar of soap. I also got a 10 dollar badger hair brush. So basically I have all the cheapest entry level supplies.

My progress/problems/observations so far:

1) Making lather from a shaving soap bar is tough!!! This is probably whats screwing up my shaves. I simply dont make enough lather from the soap bar. And since I have barely any lather I try to conserve it and don't always reapply lather when I should. I'm adjusting better to this by learning how to heavily load up my brush. Also I never realized how much lather is actually hidden in the brush and you can get out a ton by wringing out the brush once.

2) Shaving ATG is much harder for me. I took for granted how easy it was to shave ATG with a cartridge razor, takes absolutely 0 skill. It's the complete opposite with a shavette and I literally can't do it at this point. Either the shavette snags or jerks along or I feel like I'm going to cut myself. I cant figure out how to hold the razor to shave against the grain either. I can get an acceptable shave going WTG and XTG for now.

Overall I'm enjoying it a lot and I now look forward to shaving instead of feeling like it's a chore. In the distant future I'll probably get a straight razor. It takes a real commitment to learn how to properly hone and strop and I don't trust myself yet to take the money plunge.

Welcome to the SRP. As time goes on and you gain experience, you'll figure out the proper angles for shaving ATG. Go slow, take your time, do some reading, watch some videos and soon enough you'll be getting great shaves.

Originally Posted by Learis

1) Making lather from a shaving soap bar is tough!!! This is probably whats screwing up my shaves. I simply dont make enough lather from the soap bar. And since I have barely any lather I try to conserve it and don't always reapply lather when I should. I'm adjusting better to this by learning how to heavily load up my brush. Also I never realized how much lather is actually hidden in the brush and you can get out a ton by wringing out the brush once.

Welcome Jordan!

I have never used a shavette and so can't help much on that front, but I do have a suggestion for your bar of soap. Get yourself a bowl that you don't need/use for normal bowl-related stuff (or do like I did and get a cheapo one at the dollar store), then introduce your bar of soap to a grater. Any kind of cheese grater/shredder should do. Then take your grated bits o' soap and form them down into the bottom of your bowl. Voila: instant soap in a bowl. You can then build up tons of lather right on top of the soap if you so choose or take smaller loads of soap to build lather on your face or in another bowl/scuttle.

It has been said many times, but if you want a reasonably-priced introduction to straight shaving, check out whippeddog. It may be more affordable than you are assuming!

Best of luck

Soak the brush, shake it lightly, then load on the soap. Load until lather starts to form. Then lather on your moist face or in a bowl. Finish with some painting strokes to finish.

Try that a few times with minor variations. If that doesn't work then try a new soap.

Michael

Originally Posted by Cangooner

Welcome Jordan!

I have never used a shavette and so can't help much on that front, but I do have a suggestion for your bar of soap. Get yourself a bowl that you don't need/use for normal bowl-related stuff (or do like I did and get a cheapo one at the dollar store), then introduce your bar of soap to a grater. Any kind of cheese grater/shredder should do. Then take your grated bits o' soap and form them down into the bottom of your bowl. Voila: instant soap in a bowl. You can then build up tons of lather right on top of the soap if you so choose or take smaller loads of soap to build lather on your face or in another bowl/scuttle.

It has been said many times, but if you want a reasonably-priced introduction to straight shaving, check out whippeddog. It may be more affordable than you are assuming!

Best of luck

Wow, that's a cool idea. Let me make sure I'm not over-analyzing this. By "form" do you mean melt the shaved bits of soap so they form a bottom layer of the bowl? Do you do that in the microwave? Or am I just completely misinterpreting this lol?

Originally Posted by Learis

By "form" do you mean melt the shaved bits of soap so they form a bottom layer of the bowl? Do you do that in the microwave? Or am I just completely misinterpreting this lol?

Nope - no melting required using this method. Some soaps can be heated and melted but my understanding is that this is a bad idea if you have an essential oil soap as it messes with the scent.

When you grate the soap you'll end up with a pile of shavings. If you pick up a handful and squeeze, you'll find that the soap re-forms into a relatively solid shape under pressure. So really all you need to do is to squish the shavings down into the bowl. Use plenty of force to eliminate any voids so that water doesn't get in and soften everything from within. Flatten the surface off as much as you can. It won't be perfect at first, but with use the brushing action will smooth and kind of seal the top.

This is how mine looks, to give you an idea of what you might expect. The kind of mottled look is, I think, a pretty normal consequence of the shredding/re-forming process.



Because the bowl I used was so large, I actually put two bars into it using this method. The soap is Olde Windsor by Mountain Sky from out in BC. The first real shaving soap I ever used, and still one of my favourites, hence the bulk buy.

Welcome to SRP Jordan!

To get good lather from a soap you have to load your brush enough, put a teaspoon of water on top of your soap, leave it for a few minutes (while you shower) also soak you brush in a cup or similar for the same time, shake out most of the water from your brush, you just want it to be damp, not soaked (the soakinging is for the bristles to take up water), pour the water thats left on your soap into the lathering bowl it you use such, if not, just get rid of it. Load your brush for 30-60 seconds, then your brush should be loaded enough, and start building lather. If you use a bowl dip your fingertipsmin water and add a few drops at the time when building the lather, I face lather and like to dip the tip of the bristles.

Different soaps need different amounts of water to make the best lather, spend some time making some practice lather without shaving. I always do a few palm latherings when I get a new soap to get the feel of water/soap ratio before shaving with it.

Stick with WTG for now, do two WTG passed untill your comfortable with it, then you can add or replace the last pass with a XTG pass and stick with that for a while before you start doing ATG passes.
It takes time to master straight shaving, take it slow, don't rush it and you will get a much better experience than if you try doing all at once.

Remember it's all about beard reduction, not removal, so before doing ATG passes you want to have as much rediction as possible from the former WTG and XTG pass.

Have fun and good luck