Originally Posted by
Orville
Whisky Wednesday has me back on Islay for a sampling of Port Charlotte Scottish Barley Heavily Peated Islay Single Malt. That's a bit of a mouthful, but explains exactly what's in the bottle, which is a 50% abv spirit with NAS, aged in Euro oak and ex-Bourbon casks. The whisky is oily, thick on the glass, and forms slow tears.
The nosing is smoky and peaty, as befits a whisky with 40 ppm worth of peat phenols. There is also the salt air to be found here. A little citrus brightens things if you wait, then ashes. It's like each waft of smoke heralds a new aroma. There is caramel and an earthiness waiting to be discovered. Finally some oak lingers long enough for me to find it.
The first sip is sweeter than expected, with little of the salinity common to Islays of my experience. The candied sweetness belies the smoke that is the bedrock on the palate. There is iodine, too, followed by vanillins. And then comes the maritime character so indicative of Islay. Salt and smoke take hold in the middle and remind you that this is still a traditional Islay malt. Moving towards the finish, there is apple and orange peel, spicy pepper notes, and tannic leather feel. Through it all, that smoke lingers, like the aftermath of a raging bonfire, seeping it way into everything about this spirit. Delicious.
Water now, and the spirit is now butter smooth caramel, with hints of cocoa powder. Less fruitiness to be found, and the medicinal qualities are more subdued. Through it all the peat smoke remains and, as it finishes, a lingering burnt rubber note that catches the breath.
Bruichladdich is moving towards a more provenance oriented usage of the term "Islay". If this bottling is an indication of where they want to lead, then I think I will follow. They are putting the more traditional Islay brands on notice, and it's hard to argue with their message, particularly when it arrives like this.