Thread: Extremely Coarse Dense Beard

I've had a dozen or so barber strait shaves and have decided on to persue this thing as a more frequent shave rather than a treat. the problem i am running into (and somewhat struggled with in the barbers chair) was the density and coarsness of my beard. i am looking to the experts here for product and technique help to get around this. My Blades all pass the "wet thumbnail test" and i am having massive friction problems that i never had with the same routine with the old mach 3.

Currently:
Only ever shave after a shower
Conditioner on the face in the shower
Using Pirates Cove Coconut Soap

Any Help or suggestions would be fantastic!!!!!!

It may be your angle as well, but as far as prep goes, you may want to look into a preshave, which many of the brands offer, and also, take your time on the shave, let us know how it goes, and try different soaps and creams. Good luck!

Originally Posted by jbeg

I've had a dozen or so barber strait shaves and have decided on to persue this thing as a more frequent shave rather than a treat. the problem i am running into (and somewhat struggled with in the barbers chair) was the density and coarsness of my beard. i am looking to the experts here for product and technique help to get around this. My Blades all pass the "wet thumbnail test" and i am having massive friction problems that i never had with the same routine with the old mach 3.

Currently:
Only ever shave after a shower
Conditioner on the face in the shower
Using Pirates Cove Coconut Soap

Any Help or suggestions would be fantastic!!!!!!

Two things come to my mind.

• The blade is held at too large an angle
• The blade is not as sharp as you think.

I am a fan of using a "touchstone" to compare things
and then eliminate problems.

For shaving I found that the single blade in a Yellow
handled BiC tossable razor is a useful constant
while evaluating shave prep and shave technique.

They are inexpensive and not so sharp that I cannot
feel them cut whiskers. They rinse clean because they
have a largish channel and thus do not clog with stubble.
The single blade also does not do the multi-blade cut behind
thing that gives me a rash.

For angle and shaving: shave the easy side of the face with
the str8 deliberately keeping the angle of the straight very flat
with the spine one or two spine thicknesses off the skin.
Hold the razor lightly so you can feel it cut whiskers.
Next use the BiC on the opposite side of the face again
holding it lightly so you can feel it cut whiskers. Try two
fingers at the very end of the handle.

In both cases work with a touch that is simply going to
wipe the lather from your face cleanly. Give almost
no attention to the whiskers other than in passing.

Finish the shave with either the BiC or the str8 which ever
is working best.

The next day lather again and adjust the angle up or down
by a spine width.

If the str8 feels dull compared to the BiC give it a handful
of laps on your finest hone, strop with care and shave test.
Compare against the BiC... finish the shave with which ever
is working best.

Shave prep. Since two BiC blades from the same bag are
going to be identical use them to tinker with your shave prep
experiments.

With a "sturdy" set of whiskers if the str8 is held at a high angle
the thin sharp edge will fold and not act sharp. Stropping on
canvas will most often recover the edge to the point that
leather can perfect it.

At this point I am not sure if your blade will pass the "wet thumb pad test"
A "wet thumbnail test" will dull a razor and should be reserved for
kitchen knives and bevel setting.


My money is on not yet sharp enough...
I should point you to the
Pyramid honing guide - Straight Razor Place Wiki

I definately agree with the above, you didn't mention if you have shaved with a razor honed by a pro. What is the razor brand? Prep sounds like it's ok, so it more than likely is either the sharpness or form...or both.

Originally Posted by jbeg

...
the problem i am running into (and somewhat struggled with in the barbers chair) was the density and coarsness of my beard. ...

Sharpness will be a big factor for your beard type.

My Blades all pass the "wet thumbnail test" and i am having massive friction problems that i never had with the same routine with the old mach 3.

The TNT isn't normally used after around 2k. Some believe that it may damage the edge after 4k and up. Try the TPT, HHT, and/or a dry-shave stroke for final testing.

I also think the edge might need more work.

If you were able to find that many barbres using straights your a lucky guy because in the U.S few do and the few that do use disposables. However in my book barbers and straights don't mix well so the fact a barber struggled with your beard reinforces that to me.

As far as your own shaving goes it could be your technique or the razor. Assuming your starting out it's a 50-50 proposition there. You might want to send one out for proper honing and then you will have eliminated one factor.

Originally Posted by jbeg

My Blades all pass the "wet thumbnail test" and i am having massive friction problems....

If I were to put money on anything about this, I'd say that this "wet thumbnail test" is your problem.

It is my experience that dragging a finely honed edge across your thumbnail will negate shave readiness. This is a test used to make sure a bevel is set, not to see if the edge is ready to give a smooth shave. A razor could conceivably pass this test at the 600 grit level which would be miles off of shave ready.

Once you get your razor to pass this test, I'd recommend working up through at least a 4k, then 8k (or equivalent) type progression. You could probably shave at lower grits, but it wouldn't be too comfy.

I don't believe that a truly shave ready blade would have difficulty getting through the unusually coarse and dense beards.

Good luck, I hope it works out for you soon!

Calling Doctor Obie........Doctor Obie.........Calling Doctor Obie..........

Doctor Obie from Heavybeardaburbia, will help you for sure........

Calling Doctor Obie.............

Have fun,

Lynn

Question, would using a heavier wedge make shaving thinker growth easier and a double hollow grind?

Originally Posted by markevens

Question, would using a heavier wedge make shaving thinker growth easier and a double hollow grind?

Many would say that a thicker grind is more suited for heavy beards. The truth is, with proper technique, a full hollow will shave any type of beard with excellent results. It`s more a matter of preference than necessity.