Thread: Home made aftershave splash - howto and ideas

Str8:
Sorry for the obtuse questions, but you got the answer in there. If I understand you, if I open a bottle of EO and think the smell nasty, the answer is "no".
The main reason I wanted to use the raw materials is that I am cheap and own trees and plants.
Thanks for the help and resources.
Scott

Thanks for all of the info, definately want to try this sometime

str8fencer-
I'm sorry if I missed this info here, but what do you use for alcohol? Do you use grain spirits, 190 proof what we call "Everclear" around here, a really good vodka, or pharmacy rubbing alcohol? Also, what about the witch hazel? Can it be regular store bought or does it require a more pure distilate (don't know if that is the way to put it, but it sounded official!) Thanks a lot for all the info.

I'm a bit confused about something. You refer to "base oils", "heart oils" and "top oils", but are these defined by their scent, the concentration of the EO in the oil or something else? If I were to look for these oils for purchase, what would I want? Essential oil? Fragrant oil?

Thanks for the great post, by the way!

Originally Posted by Joegags

str8fencer-
I'm sorry if I missed this info here, but what do you use for alcohol?

Hey Joe,
I know there are dedicated perfumers alcohol which is very very clean and totally scentless. It is also very expensive. We do not sell everclear in my country, but if I had access to it I would use that - it is actually known to be pretty close to ideal.
The essential points are that the alcohol is
a) as pure as possible, and
b) that it has little fragrance of it's own.

Many also use a vodka, but I don't use it because I want a stronger solution. This is because a stronger alcohol is better for killing off germs and whatnot, and also because the alcohol is what absorbs the oils. Consider this: A bottle of alcohol basically consists of pure alcohol and water. Oil does not bind with water. Your oils mind with alcohol molecules, and the stronger the alcohol, the more oil it can absorb. If you add too much oil, it will go cloudy and you must shake it before each use. If you can live with these 2 aspects, there is nothing wrong with using some vodka.

In my country I use some rubbing alcohol which is very clean so that is not a bad substitute - but I'd stick with everclear if I were you.
I aim for around 70% strength in the finished mix, or around 140 proof, so as long as the alcohol is stronger than that you're good. Just a matter of diluting it to 140 proof. Oh, and distilled water is good for diluting, but boiled drinking water whould also work.

You can use witch hazel in stead of alcohol, but the above mentioned problem would probably occur - you would get a cloudy mixture and therefore must shake your bottle before application. If it has any other bearings on say shelf life or so, I am afraid I do not know. I have made some with hazel based mixes but I don't like them - if I don't use alcohol I tend to get bumps. Do experiment tho

Best of luck.

Originally Posted by jdto

You refer to "base oils", "heart oils" and "top oils", but are these defined by their scent, the concentration of the EO in the oil or something else?

Essential oils have a fragrance because scent molecules are bound to the oil which are released into the surroundings over time. Depending on the other ingredients, this reaction can happen fast or slow, but eventually will lead to a non fragrant substance. Perfumers have used this info to classify oils. If an oil releases all it's scent molecules fast, they will call it a top oil. If it releases it's molecules slow they will call it a base oil. Simple as that. Examples: citrus oils, and specifically bergamot, are top oils. Bergamot will "die" after 15 minutes. Sandalwood, on the other hand, are bound so tightly they take some 2 years before they die.

In the early aftershaves they used fresh smelling oils, citrus and some herbs. These are typically top oils. In practical use, you would notice it leaves you feeling refreshed, but also that it has little staying power. If you are using bergamot oil only, it will have a very short life (your spouse will be charmed only for a little while, 15 minutes actually ) If you double the amount of bergamot oil, she will think you smell strongly of bergamot for 15 minutes. Then that fragrance would die as well, just like the first one. Increasing the amount does not significally alter the life of your concoction.

So how to make a longer lasting saftershave? This is where the answer to your qustion is buried. You guessed it I'm sure, add some oils with longer life. Base oils will be fragrant for 6+ hours, and fill this purpose nicely. Top oils typically are all gone within the hour. The ones in between are classified as heart oils.

In making an aftershave, you might using different lasting oils to create a fragrance that develops as you wear it.
Imagine if you will the sandalwool recipe we mocked up
(40 sandalwood
20 clary sage
15 black pepper
10 lime
5 lemongrass.)
Upon application, it will smell fresh from the citrus and lemongrass, with some sweetness from these oils. It will last a little while, and then these components will die off, leaving the pepper and clary sage to shine. These will last a few hours. The next morning, only the sandalwood will still be present. This is also why I recommend using a higher % of base oils, it improves the fragrance's scent life.

Finally, if you do a search you'll find oils classified. Knowing how long each oil lasts might help in building a fragrance.

Originally Posted by jdto

If I were to look for these oils for purchase, what would I want? Essential oil? Fragrant oil?

Fragrance oils are artificial creations made to smell like the real thing. Essential oils are the real thing. I tend to stick to essential oils myself, for this reason.

Best of luck.

Thanks for the reply!

Have you ever made a lime aftershave? I started with lime vodka, 750L - added about 40 - 50 drops of Key Lime essential oil ( I guess that would be my base oil) and then I added about 30 or so drops of Kermit's cold pressed true Key lime oil for color and for that extra added lime scent strength. I just used my nose and skin for a test? So far it has turned out Ok. I perhaps could make it stronger if I wanted to. Though, I think you have to be careful with lime oil because it can burn your skin or cause a reaction if it is too strong. I thought about using the Key Lime zest and putting it in the bottle as if I was making my own lemoncello and allowing the zest to age like the drink - but since I have the true lime oil why bother. Do you know if there is a better recipe out there for lime cologne & aftershave? I would just like to get it in it's proper proportions.

Originally Posted by Pen1954

Have you ever made a lime aftershave?

Hello Pen1954
I have not made a lime aftershave. I never will either, I am just too concerned with it's phototoxity. I have to admit I am concerned with your recipe, for this reason. Please make sure you read up on this matter. Your lime oil must be steam distilled for perfume use, you should not use cold pressed oil. I do use lime and other citrus oils thou, but always in small portions and in combination with other oils.

Originally Posted by Pen1954

added about 40 - 50 drops of Key Lime essential oil ( I guess that would be my base oil)

Usually when people talk about base oils, they are talking about oils that smell for a long time, typically 6 hours or more. Lime oil is a top oil, no matter how much you use of it. So, if one were to nitpick, one could say that your recipe is based on lime, which is a top oil, but calling it a base oil would be beyond the regular use of that term.

Originally Posted by Pen1954

Do you know if there is a better recipe out there for lime cologne & aftershave? I would just like to get it in it's proper proportions.

I am not aware of any recipes that are near as heavy on lime as yours seem to be. Usually lime and other citrus oils play a smaller part in a fragrance, combined with other oils. The recipes for the old original colognes (kölnisher wasser, 4711 and so) were basically citrus and lavender based, but these days mixes like those are rare.

Stay healthy, read up on your oils.

Best of luck.

Originally Posted by str8fencer

Hello Pen1954
I have not made a lime aftershave. I never will either, I am just too concerned with it's phototoxity. I have to admit I am concerned with your recipe, for this reason. Please make sure you read up on this matter. Your lime oil must be steam distilled for perfume use, you should not use cold pressed oil. I do use lime and other citrus oils thou, but always in small portions and in combination with other oils.




Usually when people talk about base oils, they are talking about oils that smell for a long time, typically 6 hours or more. Lime oil is a top oil, no matter how much you use of it. So, if one were to nitpick, one could say that your recipe is based on lime, which is a top oil, but calling it a base oil would be beyond the regular use of that term.






I am not aware of any recipes that are near as heavy on lime as yours seem to be. Usually lime and other citrus oils play a smaller part in a fragrance, combined with other oils. The recipes for the old original colognes (kölnisher wasser, 4711 and so) were basically citrus and lavender based, but these days mixes like those are rare.

Stay healthy, read up on your oils.

Best of luck.

My essential Key Lime oil has been steam distilled. It is clear and has only a strong scent of the Key Lime. The cold pressed Key Lime oil on the otherhand, is just that - pressed zest of the Key Lime peel. Yes, and the sunburn effect does concern me by using lime oil. I may not try this again.