Those Daffy Ducks

Look carefully at the distance between the blade and the wedge. Most of the shrinkers < ( my own word) I have seen hit the wedge. You may want to make your corrective shim/wedge that CelticC shows so that it also keeps the scales from shrinking too much. A sort of wedge between the tang (which you will have to put at 90 degrees of the scales) and the wedge/pin end. I have never done this but is what I would do IF that space between the blade and the wedge is small. Hope you got the picture that's in my mind :<0)

Attachment 210308
Not the best photo, seems to be plenty of space between wedge and blade.

Okay here is the picture in my mind :<0)

The space I refer to is where the blade goes in.

From top to bottom :
Satinwedge scales shrank so the blade hits the wedge.
Satinedge original scales with some shrink.
Satinedge with a little more room.

Attachment 210310

On some of my recent restores for myself I have gone even farther. But the 1 in the pic I would list as perfect in my book. IMHO

Yeah would be closest to the middle razor, shouldn't be a problem. Will have a go at it this weekend when I have some spare time. Don't want to rush it. Cheers 10pups.

Just getting started in the world of straight razors, and went out on a limb with a Dubl Duck Goldedge.
It has no wear that I can detect, and supposed to still have factory grease on blade. Scales look pristine. 90% of the gold wash is intact.
And the blade has a 1/8" chip in it. (Thus making it something in my price range...)
I will not be attempting to hone it out myself, but excited to have stumbled onto a beautiful razor.
My thinking is that if it cleans up well, and the blade can be honed properly, it could be a good one to keep and use.
I read these posts and figured I'd jump in and have my own Duck.
Check it:
Attachment 213977

And...the other side of the Duck:

~

Beautiful Double Duck!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ramsa

I read these posts and figured I'd jump in and have my own Duck.

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I'd call that very selective reading. These razors are hollow grinds. Or, as the natives say, too hollow grinds. If you take the pitiful remains of that blade between thumb and index finger, you will feel a narrow ridge right above the edge. That is The Ridge. If you remove as much of the edge as you will need to in order to make that razor shave again, you will have a completely messed up blade geometry (read: a nightmare to hone, unless you remove significant amounts of the back, too) with a hollow grind sans horizontal stabiliser. Meaning, there is nothing to clean up, unless you want a scary sharp Dubl Duck letter opener.

Oh, and if that thing has factory grease on it, I'm a cogwheel.

Just a reminder; the wedges on even the better celluloid razors were really cheap stuff an can cause a rot quickly.
Attachment 213981
~Richard
PS, That means to replace any plastic wedges with new. Acrylics or lead works well.

So...maybe that's why nobody had bought it? I thought after a period of use a blade might naturally sharpen/hone that far back (1/8" from edge)...
I HAVE been wrong before, though.
LOL...
BTW: "that thing" is my beloved new Duck. ;)