Thread: The Master Regrind Revisited

Originally Posted by eod7

Here's a master regrind. The tip must have taken a hit when it whacked the scales and the whole thing was slightly shortened and hollow ground. Very good work.

Looks very nice,but how do you know it is a regrind?

The scales are almost a half inch too long and were chipped in an area the blade doesn't reach. It could be a scale swap, I guess, but the pins look untouched.

Originally Posted by eod7

The scales are almost a half inch too long and were chipped in an area the blade doesn't reach. It could be a scale swap, I guess, but the pins look untouched.

Agree that the blade has been shortened,But what tells you the blade has been reground into a hollow?

It could be. Or not! Sometimes you can look at both sides and see differences in the stablizers. Other than that, compare the grind and stabilizers to an originally hollow grind, such as this one. Pretty close! No blade etch. Anyone's guess?

Am thinking there is no way to tell if a blade has been reground from say a wedge to a hollow.JMO

Certainly there is! If, one has knowledge of a particular razor from a particular era before extreme hollows were made and seeing that razor reground thin and looking for the signs. It is like holding ivory in one hand and bone in the other. One has to see something and then something to compare it to. Then, as it is seen again, it becomes obvious!
An example such as the GR stubtail I pictured above. I feel no one was grinding stubbies like that in the 1830's!
Also, that Greaves sheafworks. I own about 4 which are near wedges and wider. They certainly have no stabilizers and thin grind such as that one. All from the early 1800's.
Just knowing what you are looking at and when it was made, really!