Thread: brands that hold an edge

To clarify my previous post: I'm reference to holding a great edge for example my Dovo 5/8 best needs to be touched up on a hone at least twice and on it's third touch up usually is when my Genco fluid steel (also 5/8) needs to be honed. Also I don't change anything between them same progression on hones, same number of full passes on cromium oxide paddle strop, and same number of full (and same length & pressure) passes on my 3" wide horse hide bridal strop. So every thing is the same between them but my Dovo has to be honed at least there times to my Genco's one.

I can't comment well on vintage razors but for newish ones my Theirs Issard's hold up very well- almost twice as long as Dovo BQ's which I love.

Originally Posted by OCDshaver

My Friodurs hold an edge quite a good while. Stainless steel seems to help with that. But if your beard is particularly tough, you might try a heavier Sheffield grind blade. They seem to plow through stubble with greater authority than hollow grinds. My Wade and Butcher FBU is like a squeegee when it comes to my shave.

+1...I've found this to be true as well. But as Glen said above: "...the better one gets at doing their parts of the equation, the better the razor gets at holding an edge for a longer time, ...".

Originally Posted by Swerve

So every thing is the same between them but my Dovo has to be honed at least there times to my Genco's one.

This is exactly the kind of info/experience that I was looking for in the OP. While I do stand by what I said in my reply to Glenn, I think I might have to give the Genco a shot. I have a couple of Sheffields and a couple of Solingens, so, if I'm going to buy another SR (which I know that I will), I might as well make it an American. I do realize, however, that there are other variables- age of the razor, honing, tape, etc, but one doesn't often hear bad things about American steel.

Thanks for all the posts!

From what I have read and seen in vintage advertisements, there were vintage razors that were honed for different kinds of beards. Sorry, but I am not really able to help much more than that. But, you did receive a comment about improving techniques to improve your results. Seems like sound advice to use until you have your answer. Good luck and keep us all posted on our findings.

Originally Posted by OCDshaver

But if your beard is particularly tough, you might try a heavier Sheffield grind blade. They seem to plow through stubble with greater authority than hollow grinds. My Wade and Butcher FBU is like a squeegee when it comes to my shave.

This is a belief system held by mostly beginners & for some it can be true but a well honed full hollow will work equally well on tough beards.. The Fili 14 is as hollow as they get & designated "Especial Para Barbas Duras"

Iwasaki san's book on honing has an interesting section on How to use a Western razor.

In the instructions included with a German "Henckels" razor, it says that when shaving, "hold the razor almost flat against the face." Something very similar is printed on the front of English "Haddon" razor boxes.
And in our country, we are taught to hold the razor at a 45 degree angle when shaving. This 45 degree angle, whether it's in relation to the skin or to the hair, is a standing position. In other countries, the razor is used lying flat.
Since long ago, Kamisori have been used lying flat.
If you try using a razor at a standing angle, the edge will very quickly start to show signs of damage, and an edge that should shave 200 faces or more will only shave around ten. So if you think you'd like to preserve your edges as long as possible, keep the blade as flat as you can when you shave.
Of course, if you haven't put a good edge on the razor, when you lay it flat it won't shave at all, and you will have to raise the angle. But shaving with an edge like that is a mistake.

Ginsu is world-renowned.

Originally Posted by JBHoren

Ginsu is world-renowned.

I think they recalled their serrated razor line.

My Swedish framebacks hold a great edge, my Burrell Top Flight does too.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

This is a belief system held by mostly beginners & for some it can be true but a well honed full hollow will work equally well on tough beards.. The Fili 14 is as hollow as they get & designated "Especial Para Barbas Duras"

Iwasaki san's book on honing has an interesting section on How to use a Western razor.

In the instructions included with a German "Henckels" razor, it says that when shaving, "hold the razor almost flat against the face." Something very similar is printed on the front of English "Haddon" razor boxes.
And in our country, we are taught to hold the razor at a 45 degree angle when shaving. This 45 degree angle, whether it's in relation to the skin or to the hair, is a standing position. In other countries, the razor is used lying flat.
Since long ago, Kamisori have been used lying flat.
If you try using a razor at a standing angle, the edge will very quickly start to show signs of damage, and an edge that should shave 200 faces or more will only shave around ten. So if you think you'd like to preserve your edges as long as possible, keep the blade as flat as you can when you shave.
Of course, if you haven't put a good edge on the razor, when you lay it flat it won't shave at all, and you will have to raise the angle. But shaving with an edge like that is a mistake.

I'm visualising what's happening by dragging a razor across the face with a steep angle and what it looks like lying flat. I'm envisaging a 'buffing' of the edge when the angle is steep. However, I must admit esp as certain points on my face I shave with a rather steep angle. Also, I sometimes go over a spot several times when the cream has long gone. I think as one gets better at shaving one can start to break some of the rules