Thread: question on straight razor styles

So since getting into the vintage straight market i have noticed lots of differences in straights and have been able to get answers for all of them but one. I thought asking here would hopefully get me a good answer to resolve my question so here it goes. Since going to multiple antique stores and looking at vintage straights i have noticed that some razors have a very short blade from spine to the cutting edge. Is this normal? The blades usually appear in very good shape and to have been made this way but i cant find any answers online? I know this can sometimes happen due to excessive honing but i can tell when its due to that and when it appears to have been produced this way, is this just a normal different style blade/ production method? I have avoided buying some very nice looking razors due to this difference so any help is appreciated, all my other razors are a normal looking blade size and style.-john

How short do you mean?

Blades come in different widths, depending on their intended purpose, so don't be surprised if you see old 3/8 or 4/8 blades. Of course, there are also cases of over-honing.

You are talking blade sizes and I believe they generally run from 3/8 inch to over 1 inch in size in 1/8 inch increments. Personally I have not run across a 3/8 razor in an antique store yet unless it was a victim of excessive honing. Most I see are 4/8 to 6/8 in size if that is what you are calling normal.

Bob

i usually see 4/8 or so and my others arearound 6/8 so that confused me seeing a shorter blade width

My Mother just brought me a 3/8 she found in an antique store and I have a DD styleedge that is 3/8. Neither with any hone wear. I am sure I read these are mostly used for trimming hair around a hair cut like the back of your neck etc. Maybe good to use under the nose too ! If I ever give up the mustache that would be the first thing I tried it on. As said they go up from there in 1/8" increments.

The most frequently encounted vintage razor width is 5/8 followed by 6/8. You could regard this as a vote on best width for shaving from our historical ancestors.

I have and use Friodurs in 4/8, 5/8, 6/8, and 7/8 widths. They all shave OK when the edge is shave ready. None shave well unless the edge is shave ready.

The little 4/8 is very nimble but it is a bit harder to see and hold an angle and possibly strop and hone. The 4/8 does not have a lot of steel for wear and error correction. The 7/8 is a bit more difficult to fit into tight spaces while shaving and is heavier and less nimble.

I recommend 5/8 as the best balance point for ease of use and maintenance.

I avoid true spike points, but like round points and square points having their spike slightly rounded.

Assuming good steel, heat treat, and blade geometry, the critically important factors are getting and keeping a true shave ready edge. This requires starting with a shave ready edge, a good strop and stropping skills which must be learned ASAP because stropping is needed after each SR shave. Touchup and honing skills will also eventually be needed.

I like to buy vintage razors having no abuse and little hone wear. I shun beat up and worn out razors. Buying a razor with no issues is often cheaper than buying a razor with issues and paying for restoration, if restorable.

HTH

I have seen 3/8 razors referred to as barber's razors. Perhaps indeed because they are nimble, which would be an asset if you have to shave many different faces?

I have 2 old Wilkinson Pall Mall razors, they came in a case, there was supposed to be 3, one is missing, they are 3/8th SR's:



I've been using these as a rotation for the last 6 weeks or so, and I must admit, they are superb shavers! I've got blades that are 5/8th and 6/8th, so these were new to me, and again I will say, I get a really excellent shave from them. I've got a very thick beard, and these are nimble, provide great control and feedback as they are both full hollow, and I wouldn't trade them at all.

Give it a try, worst case is you can sell them here on the classifieds!

Cheers!

Those smaller (3/8, 1/2) razors are generally made of thinner blade stock as well in my experience. A good way of telling whether it was made that way or over-honed.

Personally I think they're underappreciated in the straight world. I've got an old 1/2" Marvey Black Devil that'll take a weeks growth off the face every bit as easily as a larger blade, and it is indeed very nimble.

Have a 3/8" John Barber waiting for an edge that Im interested in trying soon too. Maybe it was just intended for just the neck or whatever, but i intend to drag it across my entire face. :-)