Thread: New Hart Steel Oxidation Spots

Originally Posted by Tack

Personally, I do not oil a blade except in the case of prepping one for long term storage. I simply dry the blade carefully, prop it up against something - blade open 60 degrees - for "a while", then put it away. I

Plus 1 the "Trick" is leaving them open in a safe place, I leave mine overnight inside a drawer I have set up just for that reason, the next day it gets put in it's storage spot..
I live in slightly more humid Idaho and I still have no issues with this system


ps: To the op I just noted you have wood scales also, so this system is pretty much required for your razor..

To check wood scales for moisture absorption, simply take a wet finger and touch the side of the scale did you leave a wet spot ??? if so then you have to be extra careful with that razor... Renaissance Wax is your new BFF get some and use it in and out, re-do the Ren Wax about every 6 months, and life will be easy, using it on the steel is not bad either...

Originally Posted by Tack

I have stored them in VCI gun socks for many years and recently found that small one razor sized sleeves of the same material are available. I've been using those for the razors in active rotation for the last year or so and have not seen any signs of rust or spotting so far.

Received 6 razors that were stored in those socks for 8 months. All had varying degrees of light rust. There was a Hart in there & the edge was microchipped wherever a pit had formed. Don't know the circumstances pre storage but just sayin' there are no guarantees when it comes to rust.

Down here RH was 99% the other night so I take a pretty serious approach to rust. My razors are all kept in airtight containers with desiccant packs & the steel is always oiled with 'Inox MX-3'. Best WD type spray I've ever come across.

Down here RH was 99% the other night so I take a pretty serious approach to rust.

Good point onimaru, the average humidity is very high here as well but we also have about 360 air conditioning days per year so my steel is living in dehumidified air most of the time. Stuff dries quickly in the moving air as well. It all needs to be considered and it's always best to do more than is needed.

rs,
Tack

Gotta love air con.

I've noticed that my modern razors rust faster than my vintage razors. Is that the quality of the steel or a patina thing?

Originally Posted by ChopperStyle

I've noticed that my modern razors rust faster than my vintage razors. Is that the quality of the steel or a patina thing?

Suggest you look at why any of your razors are rusting.

Originally Posted by Vaquero

As for oiling it daily, is there a specific oil you guys recommend? Thanks again!

I have used the oil that came with the razor from day 1 and never had any issues. If it truly was something you notices after shave numero uno, I would contact the compay. Hart is as American as a company can come and pleasure to do business with. As with anything handmade there is a margin for error. I had a tiny bend at the tip of my edge and the only way I noticed it was it scratched my strop. I returned it and they took care of it at lightening speed.

Thank you all for your wisdom. Some added insight from my part:

1) I bought the razor from a third party seller who said the rusting must have happened when I shaved. That is, water droplets stayed on the spine and voila. Does that even make sense? If a blade is *so* sensitive to water and has trouble in a 15min shave, then there must be serious manufacturing issues, no? Or the seller had improperly stored the blade and just sanded it before shipment. Which brings me to my second point.
2) I sanded the spine with 1200 grit paper and removed the rust.
3) My second shave I did see water droplets sit on the spine. I did nothing about this and at the end of the shave I had to sand again. Gah!
4) Lesson learned. While shaving, wipe any droplets that stay in single spot for a prolonged period of time.
5) I use the Hart Steel oil that was given with the unit after wiping the razor post-shave and store it for 2-3 days before my next shave.
6) No issues up to this point (on shave 10+ currently)

As much as I would love to leave it someplace safe to air dry, its just cumbersome for me. In addition, the Hart Steel oil has worked fairly well after an initial wipedown. I will see how it goes. If the oil is trapping air, I'll switch to the oil suggested above. As for the wood, I haven't done a water test, but I do the inside of the scale after my shave too.

Originally Posted by Vaquero

If a blade is *so* sensitive to water and has trouble in a 15min shave, then there must be serious manufacturing issues, no?

No. It is high carbon 01 steel. Left with water standing on it oxidation starts pretty quick. The water may have something to do with it too. Well water or city water ? Either may have 'stuff' in it that may promote water spots, oxidation.

Then there is you. Back in the old days when tattoo artists had to take packs of 1,000 needles to solder groups together, and then solder them unto bars there was only high carbon steel needles. I've seen guys who had to handle their needles with tweezers because of the acid in their skin.

I was a lucky one. I could dip my thumb and forefinger in a pile of needles, pull out the amount I wanted, and not cause any rust on the remainder. Point is, high carbon steel is prone to rust and some, like 01 are more prone than others.

Sounds like your new regimen of wiping and oiling is working though so maybe it is all good.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

I've seen guys who had to handle their needles with tweezers because of the acid in their skin.

+1! I know a guy here in Tucson (where we frequently have single digit RH) that works as a machinist. His touch on most metals will cause oxidation in an hour or two. He wears gloves...