Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 35
Like Tree37Likes

Thread: Anyone feel that shave quality diminished after Tuf Glide use?

  1. #21
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Walla Walla in WA State USA
    Posts
    11,156
    Thanked: 4230

    Default

    While I've never used Tuff Glide, I do oil my blades after shaving and I use Ballistol. Since it's 'today' and not the days gone by I take advantage of modern connivance's like 'electricity' to help dry my blades. I use liquid dish soap to remove any residue from the blade as I've found that many shaving soaps do leave a residue/if you don't believe me just rinse your blade as normal then while it's wet slide your fingers up and down the blade, then apply a drop of the dish soap to each side apply some water and work it in, then rinse again and I do believe that you will then find the blade 'squeaky clean'

    Back to drying the blade. After the washing I dry the blade with a towel then use a blow dryer to make sure any moisture is gone from the edge and blade in general. I try to do the same at the pivot but very carefully as I don't want to get so much heat as to affect the scales.

    After a couple of minutes I apply a drop of the Ballistol and use a piece of toilet paper to coat the blade and edge.

    When I'm ready to shave, I rinse the Ballistol off with hot tap water, then wipe the blade dry, strop and shave.

    This works for me, perhaps it will work for you.
    Phrank and MikeT like this.
    Our house is as Neil left it- an Aladdin’s cave of 'stuff'.

    Kim X

  2. #22
    barba crescit caput nescit Phrank's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    9,660
    Thanked: 2691

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cudarunner View Post
    While I've never used Tuff Glide, I do oil my blades after shaving and I use Ballistol. Since it's 'today' and not the days gone by I take advantage of modern connivance's like 'electricity' to help dry my blades. I use liquid dish soap to remove any residue from the blade as I've found that many shaving soaps do leave a residue/if you don't believe me just rinse your blade as normal then while it's wet slide your fingers up and down the blade, then apply a drop of the dish soap to each side apply some water and work it in, then rinse again and I do believe that you will then find the blade 'squeaky clean'

    Back to drying the blade. After the washing I dry the blade with a towel then use a blow dryer to make sure any moisture is gone from the edge and blade in general. I try to do the same at the pivot but very carefully as I don't want to get so much heat as to affect the scales.

    After a couple of minutes I apply a drop of the Ballistol and use a piece of toilet paper to coat the blade and edge.

    When I'm ready to shave, I rinse the Ballistol off with hot tap water, then wipe the blade dry, strop and shave.

    This works for me, perhaps it will work for you.
    I think I'm going to give that a try...usually I rinse my blade after a shave in running hot water, then dry with a tissue and let air dry, then strop and store in a razor sock. Next time I'm going to check out the residue point you've made - it wouldn't surprise me with left over residue...can't hurt and squeaky clean is the way to go....definitely worth a try! Thanks!

  3. #23
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Walla Walla in WA State USA
    Posts
    11,156
    Thanked: 4230

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Phrank View Post
    I think I'm going to give that a try...usually I rinse my blade after a shave in running hot water, then dry with a tissue and let air dry, then strop and store in a razor sock. Next time I'm going to check out the residue point you've made - it wouldn't surprise me with left over residue...can't hurt and squeaky clean is the way to go....definitely worth a try! Thanks!
    Let us know how it goes as I've said it works for me and perhaps it will work for you also
    Our house is as Neil left it- an Aladdin’s cave of 'stuff'.

    Kim X

  4. #24
    Senior Member blabbermouth engine46's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Republic of Texas
    Posts
    7,810
    Thanked: 1744
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    I use Tuf Glide ever since it was introduced to me & I have never had a problem with it. After a shave I blow any excess water out with canned air used on computers & I will lube the pivot pin with Tuf Glide & wipe any excess off with a clean rag & it works great. It is used by Navy Seals so if it wasn't a good product, they wouldn't even use it. It goes on wet but then turns into a dry lubricant so I don't see how it could affect the cutting edge of a blade. It dissipates water also. You can buy it from some vendors like Classic Shaving or from the manufacturer Gun Cleaning, Knife Care, Gun Care, Lubrication & Corrosion Protection, Rust Stopper, Oil-Free, Sentry Solutions. In my opinion it is the best lube you can buy for razors, knives, firearms & more. I have been recommending it to people on here whenever I get the chance to. You can't go wrong with this product!
    Last edited by engine46; 08-04-2014 at 06:30 AM.

  5. #25
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Rochester, MN
    Posts
    11,544
    Thanked: 3795
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Phrank View Post
    I store my blades in razor socks with some Tuf-Glide drops on the pivot area.

    Prior to that, I would put some on the blade and pivot, came recommended from Classic Edge Shaving, and I've never had any issue with it...simply wipe rinse if off and you're fine. It's a mineral oil, as opposed to a carbon based oil, which can be bad for carbon based blades, "like dissolves like", type of thing.
    Mineral oil is a carbon based oil.

    I have heard of "like dissolves like" but I don't know how a carbon based oil could pull carbon out of steel. Is there any evidence of that? To be clear, I'm not challenging the suggestion, I'd just like to understand it.

  6. #26
    barba crescit caput nescit Phrank's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    9,660
    Thanked: 2691

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    Mineral oil is a carbon based oil.

    I have heard of "like dissolves like" but I don't know how a carbon based oil could pull carbon out of steel. Is there any evidence of that? To be clear, I'm not challenging the suggestion, I'd just like to understand it.
    I understand that Tuf-Glide is a mineral spirit, if that makes a difference.

    Generally when I get a new razor, I'll put a drop or two on the pivot pin area, then into a silicone treated razor sock (SRD sells them as, "sack-ups) and store. That's the last I ever use Tuf-Glide on the razor again.

    From my understanding, the razor sock alone would probably all you'd need to store a properly dried razor.

  7. #27
    Senior Member ultrasoundguy2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Romulus, Michigan
    Posts
    1,352
    Thanked: 332

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Phrank View Post
    I understand that Tuf-Glide is a mineral spirit, if that makes a difference.

    Generally when I get a new razor, I'll put a drop or two on the pivot pin area, then into a silicone treated razor sock (SRD sells them as, "sack-ups) and store. That's the last I ever use Tuf-Glide on the razor again.

    From my understanding, the razor sock alone would probably all you'd need to store a properly dried razor.
    Razor sock protects and absorbs moisture. Tufglide has microparticles that adhere to the metal. It is a brave new world , Both aforementioned products where originally produced for firearms application. Sock for absorbency of moisture & repellent of salty air. Per the bottle of Tufglide "used by Navy Seals"
    to coat moving parts and protect against corrosion. If you think its hard to remove Tufglide before a shave the other option removal of Renaissance wax is a worse option. IMHO
    Phrank and engine46 like this.
    Your only as good as your last hone job.

  8. #28
    barba crescit caput nescit Phrank's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    9,660
    Thanked: 2691

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003 View Post
    Razor sock protects and absorbs moisture. Tufglide has microparticles that adhere to the metal. It is a brave new world , Both aforementioned products where originally produced for firearms application. Sock for absorbency of moisture & repellent of salty air. Per the bottle of Tufglide "used by Navy Seals"
    to coat moving parts and protect against corrosion. If you think its hard to remove Tufglide before a shave the other option removal of Renaissance wax is a worse option. IMHO
    Good to know...I knew about the firearms applications, but the rest of what you've mentioned is new info...thanks.

    And hard to remove is exactly why I just put a drop or two, once, on the pivot pin area...even though I make sure I air dry my blades for an hour or so after use...that's an area that you don't want moisture.

  9. #29
    Senior Member blabbermouth engine46's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Republic of Texas
    Posts
    7,810
    Thanked: 1744
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Phrank View Post
    Good to know...I knew about the firearms applications, but the rest of what you've mentioned is new info...thanks.

    And hard to remove is exactly why I just put a drop or two, once, on the pivot pin area...even though I make sure I air dry my blades for an hour or so after use...that's an area that you don't want moisture.
    Andrew, I knew it was used by the Navy Seals. If you go to their website, it says so. This subject came up awhile back because the member in post #1 who started this thread, claimed that after using it, his blades weren't as sharp as they were before he used it. He apparently encountered something else because this stuff does work & as you know it works very well. When I air dry my razors I try to use the canned air for computers.
    Gun Cleaning, Knife Care, Gun Care, Corrosion Protection, Lubrication, Rust Stopper, Oil-Free, Sentry Solutions
    Last edited by engine46; 11-11-2014 at 04:02 AM.
    Phrank likes this.

  10. #30
    Senior Member entropy1049's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Riverview, FL
    Posts
    787
    Thanked: 202

    Default

    With steal maintenance, in general we should think of three concerns: Cleaning, Lubricating, and Preserving/Preventing rust. So far, there is no one dominant product on the market that does all three better than anything else. Fortunately we're razor nerds, and really only concerned with Preservation/Prevention. And with this concern in mind, there is a clear-cut, consumer tested best product.

    Eezox my friends.

    Eezox. Spray on. Wipe off. Forget about it until you hone it again. Repeat.

    A good read on rust prevention: a not-so-little rust prevention test: round 2

    NOTE: But not with celluloid scales (Eezox makes HCl in reaction with nitric acid )

    A lot of gun guys and knife guys have been using Eezox over other products (including Tuf-Glide) as a steel preservative for years. Google "Tuf-Glide vs Eezox" and there is a battery of head to head tests conducted by consumers.
    !! Enjoy the exquisite taste sharpening sharpening taste exquisite smooth. Please taste the taste enough to ride cutlery.
    Mike

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •