Thread: Leather cases promote rust

i have mine stored in leather.close to 2 years now. no oil just dry. no rust.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

I have blades like that,ren-wax them before honing and use distilled water,works.

That's a great tip - I've tried coating with oil, but forgot about ren-wax.

Originally Posted by RoyalCake

That's a great tip - I've tried coating with oil, but forgot about ren-wax.

Yep, sorta hard to hone with oil on the blade.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

I have blades like that,ren-wax them before honing and use distilled water,works.

This is what I've been doing lately.

Before a touchup, I usually clean the blade completely by polishing with a spot of ChromOx. Next, I coat the blade with a heavy coat of Automotive Carnauba wax .. (NOT Renaissance, I'm too cheap!). During honing, the only areas exposed to water and air are the edge and spine, if no tape is used. It works great, and I now store with a heavy coat of wax also, although i don't rub it off. When it's time for use, and a SOTD photo, one swipe with a cotton cloth and the blade is ready for stropping and the camera.

Oils always leave a film that is difficult to completely remove. The wax has been working well for me!

Originally Posted by RoyalCake

This may just be circumstancial, but my Hart is the hardest to keep stain free. You look at it and it gets surface rust. I literally cannot get through a normal honing session that's not particularly long without it getting some surface rust. It obviously comes off with polish.

In that case, be sure to strop immediately after honing because it is highly likely that your bevels are rusting quickly too. I have seen rust growing like frost on a cold windowpane during honing when observed under a scope. You want to get the bevels dry and preferably oiled as soon as possible after honing.