Thread: Question regarding C-MON Special Microtome

Hi Gentleman (and Ladies interested in Straights),

My name is Walt, and I am 57 years old, at least for a few months. I recently got into DE and Straights, about two months ago. I learned to shave on a hand-me-down Gillette DE (model escapes me), Boar brush and Williams soap back in the early 70s. When I went to Paris Island in 1976, we were only allowed to shave with the then new to the market cartridge razor. After Paris Island, I just continued using cartridges up until a couple of months ago. I now mourn at the thought of all of those wasted shaves, as I clearly have more shaves behind me than I probably have in front of me.

True to my nature, I got into this with a serious amount of RAD, and now own or have coming no less than 9 Straights, including the subject razor, and 3 DEs plus an ATT 7 piece with a slant along with another baseplate and the largest handle. The referenced microtome really intrigued me as I am a scientist working in Veterinary and Biomedical Sciences. Ever since I went to college back in the early 80s, rotary microtomes were readily in use, and I never even new that they made a straight razor version of the microtome for making histology microscope slides.

The guy that I bought this microtome from said that he thought that he recalled some past discussions regarding the microtome and perhaps shaving with it. I found some vintage instructions on sharpening a microtome, and they clearly talk about it being double beveled, but I do not know if they are referring to a hand held microtome such as this. Given the date, I suspect so. If you are not familiar with these, they have a hollow ground on the front of the blade, and they have a flat or full wedge on the back. There is a small bevel on the back of the subject blade which I believe to be the factory bevel. the front of the blade also has a bevel that I assume is achieved just as a normal razor bevel is achieved.

My questions are as follows: Has anyone ever sharpened these and shaved with them as they are? If so, how did you address the back bevel? When using a standard RH grip, the flat is against the skin. Does this result in excessive skin drag when shaving at normal angles?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Welcome to SRP. Here is an old thread where I honed a Puma microtome. As noted in the thread, were I to do it over again I'd use 4 pieces of tape on the wedge side.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ight=microtome

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Welcome to SRP. Here is an old thread where I honed a Puma microtome. As noted in the thread, were I to do it over again I'd use 4 pieces of tape on the wedge side.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ight=microtome

Great! And thank you! Quinton thought there was some discussions here regarding it.

Originally Posted by McVeyMac

Great! And thank you! Quinton thought there was some discussions here regarding it.

If you mean Quinton in Mississippi he knows as much about honing a razor as anyone I know, and more than most.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

If you mean Quinton in Mississippi he knows as much about honing a razor as anyone I know, and more than most.

That would be him, unless there is another Quinton in MS.

You said in your 2009 post that the Puma microtome knife did not have a bevel on the wedge side. This would indicate that it was intended to be a chisel grind bevel. On my example, there is a small bevel on the back side. According to Quinton, this razor/knife has only been displayed over the past decades, indicating that the wedge side bevel might have been put on at the factory. I don't know if this was put on freehand, but quite likely it was as it is a small bevel.

Regarding your recommendation for 4 layers of tape on the back side, is that on top of the single layer that covered both sides? regarding the shave, did the flat on the wedge side drag on your skin when using the standard RH grip during the shave? I love the weight of this knife, and I am anxious to make a razor out of it. Quinton mentioned he knew a guy who could add a grind to the back side to match the front. but I would rather not do this due to the historical nature of these knives, if only to a few science geeks like myself.

Jimmy is dead on

Add some tape to the back side and hone it up.. The original "Chisel" edge (Not to be confused with a asymmetrical Kamisori edge) was designed for "Slicing" a microscope sample, it will shave but it will be uncomfortable.. Sharp is sharp but to add the comfort you have to hone it a bit differently like a SR

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Jimmy is dead on

Add some tape to the back side and hone it up.. The original "Chisel" edge (Not to be confused with a asymmetrical Kamisori edge) was designed for "Slicing" a microscope sample, it will shave but it will be uncomfortable.. Sharp is sharp but to add the comfort you have to hone it a bit differently like a SR

I certainly do not want to slice a histopathology slide sample of my cheek, so this sounds like excellent advice to me. If I happen to slice some of my cheek off, I will immediately fix the sample in formalin and embed in paraffin. Then I will post the micrographs here for all to enjoy.

Sorry, just more science geek ranting.

Originally Posted by McVeyMac

That would be him, unless there is another Quinton in MS.

You said in your 2009 post that the Puma microtome knife did not have a bevel on the wedge side. This would indicate that it was intended to be a chisel grind bevel. On my example, there is a small bevel on the back side. According to Quinton, this razor/knife has only been displayed over the past decades, indicating that the wedge side bevel might have been put on at the factory. I don't know if this was put on freehand, but quite likely it was as it is a small bevel.

Regarding your recommendation for 4 layers of tape on the back side, is that on top of the single layer that covered both sides? regarding the shave, did the flat on the wedge side drag on your skin when using the standard RH grip during the shave? I love the weight of this knife, and I am anxious to make a razor out of it. Quinton mentioned he knew a guy who could add a grind to the back side to match the front. but I would rather not do this due to the historical nature of these knives, if only to a few science geeks like myself.

Yes it is that Quinton ..... ........ Yes, one layer of tape as you would an ordinary razor and then three more on the wedge side. Since it was 5 years ago that I honed that animal I can only go by the post, where I said there was no bevel on the wedge side to begin with. I really don't remember.

As Glen said, those were for cutting tissue samples in laboratories, not intended for shaving. However, I found it to be a cool razor to shave with because it was like a 'split personality.' The full hollow on one side, the wedge on the other. Shaved well, and unlike a normal full hollow, no flex in the blade. TBH I wouldn't go out of my way to find another microtome, but that C-Mon is a cool one, and the first I've seen.

As for there being a slight bevel on the wedge side, that is a good thing if you intend to hone it to shave with it. You have a head start. On the Puma the 'flat' side has a certain amount of concavity to it, so like a normal full wedge, it doesn't lay on the hone, nor on the cheek.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

On the Puma the 'flat' side has a certain amount of concavity to it, so like a normal full wedge, it doesn't lay on the hone, nor on the cheek.

I was hoping that this was the case. This is a pretty hefty knife with stainless scales. I think I will make it a daily shaver as it will last my lifetime, my son's lifetime and my grandson's lifetime in this role. That is once I transform it from a knife to a razor. I am about 45 shaves into straight shaving, and I have been shaving with a 5/8" Dovo that I have also practicing my honing on. I will be using the Dovo until I get my shaving skills engrained, but then I will be anxious to incorporate this into the daily shaver role. Of course as I am honing it up, I will have to perform some test shaves in order to evaluate the honing.

Originally Posted by McVeyMac

I was hoping that this was the case. This is a pretty hefty knife with stainless scales. I think I will make it a daily shaver as it will last my lifetime, my son's lifetime and my grandson's lifetime in this role. That is once I transform it from a knife to a razor. I am about 45 shaves into straight shaving, and I have been shaving with a 5/8" Dovo that I have also practicing my honing on. I will be using the Dovo until I get my shaving skills engrained, but then I will be anxious to incorporate this into the daily shaver role. Of course as I am honing it up, I will have to perform some test shaves in order to evaluate the honing.

Well just take your time, if you have an eye loupe or a microscope that is very handy in gauging progress. In the beginning a magic marker, sharpie, to blacken the edge so that you can see, by what color is removed, if your stroke is effective. Adjust the stroke as necessary until it is effective, then you no longer need the marker.