Thread: Ideal RH question

Hello Gents!
I've got a question about RH (relative humidity).
Looked it up but didn't find much.
At what RH does rust form. Or better put, at what RH does moisture form and THEN make condensation possible?
I am asking because it was pointed out to me that too low of humidity will damage wood, bone and ivory over time. Since not all scales and wood boxes will be sealed well enough with some sort of finish to prevent this "over-drying", I am looking to find a balance of humidity.
There are other factors to keep in mind but THIS question is about humidity.
I found a product called Boveda moisture control packets. I've used them for different applications before, but just realized (hopefully not too late) that the problem of preserving my ivory and wood needs to be addressed.
Lately I've noticed some cracks and blemishes. The silica packets keep ivory way too dry. It needs 45-55 RH. I believe wood is the same. So Boveda has a range, one of which is 49RH.
Besides the other issues like acidity and sulphur containing materials to keep ivory away from (just an example), this is a hard one to maintain.

If 45-55 RH is acceptable for high carbon steel, then one of these packets is perfect... Though I realize that temperature variance has a large part to play in condensation.
Thanks guys, looking forward to your input.
Michael

Edit: Thanks Onimaru55 for letting me know about silica damaging wood. It made me take a second look at "WHICH" razors (depending on scales) are okay be kept "THAT" dry...

https://books.google.com/books?id=rO...umidity&f=true

Best I could find. I use Boveda for my cigars, but I can see them working for this as well. Hope it helps.

Yes, I avoid enclosed containers with dessicant for ivory. In fact, I store no razors in anything completely airtight.
Keep all your celluloid away from any others and make certain there is air exchange going on. Easier to keep an eye on them and find the problem ones while keeping any gassing from undeserving razors. It is recommended to wipe ivory down with mineral oil yearly. I have not done it, though. Renwax works good for me so far.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Renwax works good for me so far.

Are you talking about renaissance wax? Where can I get it besides the internet?

Rust starts at 40% RH which is why I oil all my razors regardless of storage.

Originally Posted by lethalgraphix

Are you talking about renaissance wax? Where can I get it besides the internet?

Renwax is an English product. It has to come from there someway. A small can will do TONS of things, so cost should not be a consideration, except as-exorbitant.

I also use it on the blades of bone and ivory scaled razors as opposed to blade-type oil.
Oil soaks into bone and ivory and is bad for the scales as it comes into contact. It discolors the material and never seems to come out. JMO

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Renwax is an English product. It has to come from there someway. A small can will do TONS of things, so cost should not be a consideration, except as-exorbitant.

I also use it on the blades of bone and ivory scaled razors as opposed to blade-type oil.
Oil soaks into bone and ivory and is bad for the scales as it comes into contact. It discolors the material and never seems to come out. JMO

I shouldve got Ren Wax a long time ago, have read enough about it, so many of you guys use it and swear by it including museums use it.
Thats a good point about the oil I think, if its on the blade it will get onto the scales... and so forth. Thats my next purchase.
So it is good for both blades and scales? Alright!

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Rust starts at 40% RH which is why I oil all my razors regardless of storage.

Good to know. So if one is going to keep RH at 45 to 50 then the blade will need to be protected well. I admit that I havent been oiling my blades. Just keeping them very dry. Some of them TOO dry! Tomorrow Ill be oiling up my blades and scales with neatsfoot, do you think that is a good oil for blades as well as scales? For the ivory and bone ill wait for the Ren Wax in the mail.

Originally Posted by lethalgraphix

https://books.google.com/books?id=rO...umidity&f=true

Best I could find. I use Boveda for my cigars, but I can see them working for this as well. Hope it helps.

Thanks dude, thats some some good reading! One thing that stands out in my mind is that it said if one of two factors are not present then steel will not rust.. oxygen and water. I have a huge jar full of unused oxygen packs...
Im curious: If I take a Boveda 49RH and a bunch of oxygen absorbing packs if it will keep the ivory or wood at right moisture level and keep the rust off as well...???
Worth a test?

Originally Posted by MikeT

Tomorrow Ill be oiling up my blades and scales with neatsfoot, do you think that is a good oil for blades as well as scales? For the ivory and bone ill wait for the Ren Wax in the mail.

It is safer to use oil designed for anti corrosion. Other oils can have disasterous consequences.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/begin...sake-help.html