Results 11 to 20 of 35
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08-27-2015, 04:36 AM #11
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08-27-2015, 04:49 AM #12
Yeah spine to blade size ratio is very important I know my Filarmonica 8/8 as a spine thickness a tad over 5mm the width of the spine dictates the bevel setting angle, to acute and you start to develop a fragile edge to thick and the total opposite applies.
In normal cases you should not worry about the bevel angle. All "modern" razors (roughly from the 1930's till now, probably even earlier) are produced with a bevel angle between 15 and 20 degrees, centering around 17.
Where that angle comes from, I don't know, but it seems safe to assume that the manufacturers found with vast trial and error that an angle in this range delivers the best shave qualities/durability.Last edited by celticcrusader; 08-27-2015 at 04:57 AM.
“Wherever you’re going never take an idiot with you, you can always find one when you get there.”
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Thug (08-27-2015)
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08-27-2015, 05:35 AM #13
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Thanked: 3795No one has come right out and said it...
The spine to blade width ratio needs to be between 3.5 and 4.0 to 1, so you can ask the maker what his measurements are on this blade.
Regardless, the flared spine width at the heel is going to cause problems unless you always hone and strop at an extreme angle.
Ask the maker if HE can shave his entire face, not a couple of arm hairs, with the razor.
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Thug (08-27-2015)
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08-27-2015, 05:42 AM #14
If you want a really nice custom straight razor, get one from Bruno.
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08-27-2015, 06:04 AM #15
So basically the things to look out for/question:
- Ensure that the Spine is uniform along its entire length
- Ensure that the Spine/Blade ratio is approx 3.5/4 : 1
- Grind away the flared heel to ensure uniformity along the entire spine/blade.
Exactly the type of info I was looking for.
Thanks!Tony
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08-27-2015, 07:14 AM #16
As many people already pointed out the thickness of the spine increasing over the last one inch (and corresponding decrease of the blade width) is a very serious problem that affects the function of the razor.
It will be extremely difficult to put an edge on the last 1/3"-3/4" of the blade towards the heel because of this variation. The bevel angle on that portion will vary depending on how you angle the razor on the hone, which means that it is not possible to execute repeated strokes at the exact same bevel - something critical for producing a razor-sharp edge.
Of course, for a typical knife it doesn't matter because they can be honed free-hand to knife-sharp.
Such a serious flaw indicates inexperience and lack of understanding at what makes razor different from a knife - reason to definitely stay away from such custom razor even if the execution is otherwise flawless.
With time, the knife maker may figure it out and start making razors, but right now he is far from it and is only making knives.
Do not pay for a knife the premium that a razor commands over it, but if you want a knife shaped to resemble a razor, and priced accordingly, it may be just fine.
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Thug (08-27-2015)
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08-27-2015, 08:35 AM #17
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Thanked: 580I have to agree that looks don't equate to a good razor, but I do admire anyone that goes to the effort to at least try. Maybe tell the maker about SRP, there is a wealth of information here on how to get it right.
Into this house we're born, into this world we're thrown ~ Jim Morrison
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08-27-2015, 09:29 AM #18
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Thanked: 3227Another give away that a razor maker is new to the game is how the tang is shaped, usually sides running parallel with no taper front to back. On a vintage SR the tang tapers front to back. Something I failed to notice until there was a long thread on here about that and why it is. It works in conjunction with with the wedge, not a flat spacer, at the toe end of the scales. SRs do not open and close like a folding knife but knife makers turned SR makers think they do. I would have thought so too if I had not read the thread on here and took a closer look at my SRs.
Bob
See: http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...mechanics.htmlLast edited by BobH; 08-27-2015 at 09:38 AM.
Life is a terminal illness in the end
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08-27-2015, 02:55 PM #19
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Thanked: 3215I agree with Gugi on the spine, that’s a big issue and it will probably be difficult to put an edge on it. It may be the photo, but the edge does not look straight. I would like to see the bevel under magnification, at least 100X, it is so small it had to be honed free hand or on a sharpening jig.
Look at the edge, to make sure it has a shave ready edge. This is where a lot of knife guys have an issue, is producing a shavable razor edge, for all the reasons stated, aggressive grinding and improper heat treatment.
And aesthetically the crooked and uneven grind on the spine really bothers me, more as a quality control issue that the maker is calling finished.
There are many custom razor makers to choose from or countless vintage razors with proven performance and style. It is interesting how many folks think that a razor is just a thin knife with a folding handle. A razor must first be functional.
Yea, I too would pass on this purchase.
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Thug (08-27-2015)
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08-28-2015, 12:08 PM #20
Yes I am no expert of the geometry for sure; I just know it is not a knife like one poster stated. There is more to making a razor than making it "look" like a razor. You may be better off buying a nice Ralf Aust if this is your first or similar razor that is made by a company that has been doing so for close to or better than a century now!
I say a German made may be your best first because they (the Germans) seem to be great razor builders for sure! I have yet to have a bad German razor whether my Dovo; Boker; or Ralf Aust!
Just food for thought my friend. If you do look to custom or semi-custom I do have a PRC I had somewhat customized to my liking and while being a USA built razor the guys at PRC, Scott & Hunter know how to build a nice razor for a very good price!German blade snob!