Thread: Advice on antique store straight razors

I am a frequent flyer when it comes to antique store shopping for vintage DE razors. Up to this point I have passed over the straights. Now that I am on the edge of the SR rabbit hole I would like some advice on what to look for when buying antique store straight razors.

What should I look for in terms of the condition of the blade, scales, desired makes/models, etc. etc.? Any advice would be welcomed.

First check the library. On a razor check hone wear on the spine. Check for rust, pitting, cracks in blade or cracks in scales. Size of blade from cutting edge to top of spine. Razor centers in scales when closing. Makers and models are all personal preference.

Are you intending to do restore work or are you looking for a razor to just hone and use? The amount of damage you are willing to accept depends on how much work you wanted to put into it.

I will assume you are planning on doing some reasonable restoration or cleaning work. I have bought almost all of my razors at antique stores, this it's what I look for: Actually vintage (at least not in the don't buy list in the beginners section of this website), no chips in the blade, minimum rust and pitting in the blade, if there is more than scratches on the scales then plan on replacing them, if the scales are good enough then make sure the blade is centered in them and not totally loose, I don't buy frowning blades, obviously over honed or with honed out toe/ heel.

Scale work and rust removal is relatively easy. True blade damage is more than I care to fix.

Hope that helps.

There are a couple of easy things to look for, and as you get more experience, you will get better....
-At first, be VERY weary of prices. Some people have seen the growing straight razor trend and want to capitalize just like on the bay...so if a price seems high, just check the bay or even the historical record of sales in the classifieds here just to be sure.
Notes on condition;
Rust: Where is it and how much is there? Consider having some sort of magnification on-hand, even if it is an app for a smartphone. Rust on the cutting edge of the blade, or within a close proximity, generally is a bad thing. ANY rust on the cutting edge itself must be removed, and in many cases this involves removing all of that metal to ensure a clean edge going forward.
Hone Wear: Is there still a pronounced spine, or is it well worn with lots of flat spots? Is the edge straight, smiling, frowning, or tapered from heel to toe? Is the model number indicative of 5/8 but it is only measuring 4/8 in width? These are all signs of use and wear that dramatically affect value. Generally speaking, a slight smile or a straight (flat) edge is a good thing, and the more spine the better. Its best to avoid edges tapered in width from heel to toe as this indicates poor honing and excessive wear over the life of the razor.
Cell Rot: On those razors with "plastic" scales you are looking at celluloid rot, a condition where the material begins to break down and emits harmful gasses. Those gasses cause rusting on the blade as it is stored within the scales. The easiest way to spot this is looking at the blade. Is there a pronounced line of rust below the line where the blade is in-between the scales? If so, cell rot is likely. At a minimum the scales will need to be replaced, and the blade will often require a full restoration....generally far more costly than the blade is worth.
Natural Scale Materials: Bone, Horn, Ivory, etc are all susceptible to "bug bites" which are pits in the material (most often horn materials, rarely in Ivory) that could be caused by a number of factors, not the least of which is an actual insect or mite chewing away part the natural material. These could be cause for scale replacement, but at the least they take away from the aesthetic, and hence, value, of the razor.

Those are just a few pitfalls. As you buy a couple here and there you will start to get a feel for what is good and what is not....what can be polished out easily and what might be a total loss....what is a restoration candidate and what you might want to leave as-is....

And first and foremost, buy a known good razor to learn on first. Understand what a well-honed edge is from a pro and the shaves it can produce. Don't try to learn to have and to hone at the same time. You will just end up being frustrated with both, and likely lousy at both as well!

Most of all, just have fun!

Denvernoob has some good pointers up here.

Also very valuable is this post by Cedric Smythe five years ago.

Take a look in our library also,,,,,,

Purchasing straight razors - Straight Razor Place Library