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Thread: etching on blade
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05-18-2007, 09:28 PM #21
The only draw back to the smaller kits is that you can only do text that you can hand do, or that you can do on a typewriter and only 1 3/4" at a time. Graphics and computer generated text, cannot be done without a stencil machine (which start at $150 forthe smallest unit plus heavy shipping). And then the Stencil material is quite costly. Not too bad, but definately not for someone looking to make one mark.
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05-19-2007, 12:13 AM #22
One thing that I failed to mention, outside the argument of which is a better method of marking blades...you can etch a fully hardened blade. In fact it's preferable to do so. One of the reasons I really like etching is that occasionally a blade will warp in heat treating. When you get it back, you may have to grind it a bit to get everything flat and even again. I have ground the stamping off of blades before. With etching, it's easily replaced again. As I noted before, you can duplicate a stamp with etching, and probably won't be able to detect the difference (if done properly, with an AC/DC machine...the little AC only etchomatics won't get the job done). It's really nice to be able to replace what was originally on the blade you reground. Just another thing to think about. A fully hardened blade would ruin a good stamp, and the stamping stands a good chance of cracking a fully hardened blade (particularly if you're replacing what was originally on the face of the blade). I've had factory knives stamped (my older Spyderco Endura, for one), so one or the other isn't necessarily more traditional, or denote a factory knife over a handmade one. Most factory knives are laser etched, however, which is a totally different process than electrochemical etching.