Thread: Sanssouci

Go to the Browser box and type in sanssouci razor. From what I have read so far they were made after WWII and were named after a palace built in Germany for Frederick the Great around 1750.

I had one and can tell you they are great shavers. Also if they have the tortoise shell celluloid scales they will have a good chance of developing cell rot, which is what happened to mine. Here is how I fixed the problem on mine, new acrylic scales with the inlay transferred to new scales.......

Originally Posted by DoughBoy68

Go to the Browser box and type in sanssouci razor. From what I have read so far they were made after WWII and were named after a palace built in Germany for Frederick the Great around 1750.

I had one and can tell you they are great shavers. Also if they have the tortoise shell celluloid scales they will have a good chance of developing cell rot, which is what happened to mine. Here is how I fixed the problem on mine, new acrylic scales with the inlay transferred to new scales.......

I am new to all this and dont really understand the celluloid rot stuff. Will oil preserve the blade while I figure out what to do with the scales on my grandfathers Sanssouci?

Originally Posted by AlanQ

I am new to all this and dont really understand the celluloid rot stuff. Will oil preserve the blade while I figure out what to do with the scales on my grandfathers Sanssouci?

No, once it starts nothing can stop it. Heat will exacerbate the breakdown and it will or can eat the entire blade and contaminate any other metal near it.

So heating the scales to straighten may make it worse. Some better photos will make it easier to diagnose, but you have some of the “tells”, showing. Blade discoloration matching the molten pattern of the scales, see the tang, warped scales, spacer larger than the scales where the scales have shrunk.

Some razors are more prone than others and if there is a history… it is just a matter of time. It can weaken the steel and make the razor un-able to hold an edge.

Do save the badges for installation on new scales.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

No, once it starts nothing can stop it. Heat will exacerbate the breakdown and it will or can eat the entire blade and contaminate any other metal near it.

So heating the scales to straighten may make it worse. Some better photos will make it easier to diagnose, but you have some of the “tells”, showing. Blade discoloration matching the molten pattern of the scales, see the tang, warped scales, spacer larger than the scales where the scales have shrunk.

Some razors are more prone than others and if there is a history… it is just a matter of time. It can weaken the steel and make the razor un-able to hold an edge.

Do save the badges for installation on new scales.

Should I remove the scales ASAP?

edit here some closer pics

Yes, unfortunately.

If you close and open the blade in the scales you will see where the modeled dark pattern on the blade matches the pattern of the mock tortoise scales, Classic Cell Rot. It is easier to see on the back side.

Fortunately it is in the very early stages, light rust will be then next stage and when it occurs, you will lose the gold wash and the etch. Every day you wait, it is eating the blade.

Unpin them and save the badge. Take a good tracing, measurements and photos to document the replacements. Masecraft has a couple very nice Faux Tortoise that it can be re-scaled in.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Yes, unfortunately.

If you close and open the blade in the scales you will see where the modeled dark pattern on the blade matches the pattern of the mock tortoise scales, Classic Cell Rot. It is easier to see on the back side.

Fortunately it is in the very early stages, light rust will be then next stage and when it occurs, you will lose the gold wash and the etch. Every day you wait, it is eating the blade.

Unpin them and save the badge. Take a good tracing, measurements and photos to document the replacements. Masecraft has a couple very nice Faux Tortoise that it can be re-scaled in.

Thanx, I will get on it right away.
Sucks ill lose the original scales but better the scales than the whole razor.

You need to separate the blade from the scales or you will loose the etching. I lost around 85-90% of the etching on mine in less than a year. After removing soak the scales in Acetone for a few minutes, you should be able to slide the inlay off. Clean the inlay up real good with acetone then polish with Mother's Meg & Aluminum, Maas or similar metal polish. Be careful, those inlays are fragile and bend easily. When you get new acrylic scales the inlay can be glued on them with Super Glue.

If you don't feel confident doing them yourself check the Member's Services in the Classifieds here on SRP, someone will take care of that for you. Good luck and show us some pics when the razor is finished, we love pics here.

Originally Posted by DoughBoy68

You need to separate the blade from the scales or you will loose the etching. I lost around 85-90% of the etching on mine in less than a year. After removing soak the scales in Acetone for a few minutes, you should be able to slide the inlay off. Clean the inlay up real good with acetone then polish with Mother's Meg & Aluminum, Maas or similar metal polish. Be careful, those inlays are fragile and bend easily. When you get new acrylic scales the inlay can be glued on them with Super Glue.

If you don't feel confident doing them yourself check the Member's Services in the Classifieds here on SRP, someone will take care of that for you. Good luck and show us some pics when the razor is finished, we love pics here.

Scales are off, a little bit broken but then I guess that doesn't matter the inlay is safe, and they are in a Ziploc bag. I would like to restore them myself but as they have a priceless sentimental value I will either take your advice and look for someone or wait a long time as I play with some other less valuable straights while I learn what I'm doing. I can be patient but not sure just how patient I will be.
Biggest problem is I dont have any room to do stuff in the house and have to wait for warm weather to move the tools from the "garage" to the driveway to actually do very much. Garage in quotes because even though it has a garage door you couldn't even fit a car in there (well maybe a smart car) ATM it is basically jammed with my motorcycle, table saw, scroll saw. paints, etc etc. I even gave a motorcycle to my brother and still no room.

Polish the overlay/badges while they're still on the scales, old or new so there's something backing them.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by AlanQ

Scales are off, a little bit broken but then I guess that doesn't matter the inlay is safe, and they are in a Ziploc bag. I would like to restore them myself but as they have a priceless sentimental value I will either take your advice and look for someone or wait a long time as I play with some other less valuable straights while I learn what I'm doing. I can be patient but not sure just how patient I will be.
Biggest problem is I dont have any room to do stuff in the house and have to wait for warm weather to move the tools from the "garage" to the driveway to actually do very much. Garage in quotes because even though it has a garage door you couldn't even fit a car in there (well maybe a smart car) ATM it is basically jammed with my motorcycle, table saw, scroll saw. paints, etc etc. I even gave a motorcycle to my brother and still no room.

Since the razor has sentimental value and if you would like to keep it as close to original looking as possible you can get tortoise shell acrylic scales for it. I contacted Glen (gssixgun) about tortoise shell acrylic and he had some. Since you don't seem to have the room or experience and it is a family heirloom I would send it to a pro. I used the yellow scales on my because there was no sentimental value, if it had sentimental value I would have gone the tortoise shell acrylic route.