Thread: Razor 911

Originally Posted by P8TRIOT

GS, not surprising they linked to your video—which I love by the way. You have always been helpful to me.

Not surprising, my technique was totally off. I was honing this razor as though it was a western style with proportional progressions. I was doing like 10/10, when I really I should have been doing the progression you have in your video 5 or 7/1. That is maybe my biggest mistake?

The progression is actually of minimal importance, some people use a flat progression of 7:1 some use lower some use 1:1

The important part is the Pressure switches

On a Western razor we create "Torque" toward the edge while honing by using the corners on the tang..
A Kamisori you have to use your Fingers and Thumbs to create that torque, and to make it more difficult the pressure has to roll from front to back as you are honing..
This pressure variation while honing Kamisori has to be learned, and that is what keeps the bevel even and allows for the edge to become VERY keen but still be smooth to the face..

There's another consideration here - whether tape was used when it was originally honed. It looks to me as if you honed without tape and have caused some hone wear. It's always useful to know if the person who honed it last used tape - but if you can't establish that, assume they did and do the same - if you find this is creating a secondary bevel you don't want, then take the tape off - no harm done.

Originally Posted by UKRob

There's another consideration here - whether tape was used when it was originally honed. It looks to me as if you honed without tape and have caused some hone wear. It's always useful to know if the person who honed it last used tape - but if you can't establish that, assume they did and do the same - if you find this is creating a secondary bevel you don't want, then take the tape off - no harm done.

I specifically requested—when Lynn asked about this razor—for him to NOT use tape. I don't necessarily have anything against it, however I don't want to keep applying tape myself whenever I re-hone. My research has showed me and Lynn himself said in one of his posts that if you use tape you have to always use tape to correctly work off that established bevel other-wise you end up creating a new bevel/edge.

Because it is MY personal razor I don't really care about the hone wear. "To tape or not to tape" there are as many views on this as there are people using straights. I just wanted to keep it simple and consistent at the end of the day.

GS, I am intrigued by this pressure switching you speak of. Do you have any videos showing/explaining this?

Seems to me your job if you chose to accept it is to even out what you made uneven. The selective use of pressure to re establish an even wear pattern. So before you actually rehone the blade your going to restore the bevel to a state that will hone evenly. At this point I wouldn't use tape until you have that sorted out, then once its reasonably even you may add tape and begin the actual honing process as per Glens video. Its going to take some analysis of whats happening on the stone but I think if you take it on you will learn a ton about your razor. Go slow and study whats happening and I bet you will make her whole again.

Originally Posted by P8TRIOT

GS, not surprising they linked to your video—which I love by the way. You have always been helpful to me.

Not surprising, my technique was totally off. I was honing this razor as though it was a western style with proportional progressions. I was doing like 10/10, when I really I should have been doing the progression you have in your video 5 or 7/1. That is maybe my biggest mistake?

I think you're biggest mistake was in honing the tang. In technical terms you created a wibbly wobbly bevvlly wevvly geometry.
A regrind will not replace the metal you removed.
Make sure you understand what needs to be done if you plan to put it on stones again yourself.

All Japanese single bevel tools should have very little honing on the ura or 'back"

Originally Posted by onimaru55

In technical terms you created a wibbly wobbly bevvlly wevvly geometry.

If I needed one reason to explain why I am on this site, this summarily explains it.

Maybe the Naniwa 1k is screaming in pain. I would like to emphasize that you try not to use heavy pressure restoring that razor. Please keep it on the lighter side its better to do more strokes and evaluate your progress than realizing you suddenly burned through too much steel. Take it slow and easy and good luck.

Originally Posted by Razorfaust

Maybe the Naniwa 1k is screaming in pain. I would like to emphasize that you try not to use heavy pressure restoring that razor. Please keep it on the lighter side its better to do more strokes and evaluate your progress than realizing you suddenly burned through too much steel. Take it slow and easy and good luck.

Well guys I DID IT! It now passes he arm-hair test AND shave test which was reasonably comfortable; I was trepidatious on going back to strop it—just too excited!

Here is the result a near mirror edge finish; bear in mind the I had already done the damage on the initial two attempts but the edge is now much much better and —in my view—more professional.



Special thanks to drMatt357, Razorfaust & last but not least gssixgun for arming me with all that I now know regarding proper honing technique—Glen, I learned the correct pressure and torque you were talking about, that was literally the key to my success!

I LOVE THIS COMMUNITY!

I'm glad it shaves well in the end that's what matters. You certainly will know how to treat her better the next time. Good save.

Question, should it be able to pass the arm hair test coming off the 1k or should I continue on to the 5k