Thread: Smiling vs straight blade

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Just practice a scything cut, with a straight edged razor, where you are moving slightly diagonally as the edge is moving forward. You don’t need an exaggerated lateral movement to get the effect. Make sure your blade is moving forward the whole time, or you will cut yourself.

A smiling razor, does the same thing, only not to the same extent. The more smile/curve, the more the scything effect, where the edge is contacting the beard hair, at an angle. The snowplow is a good analogy.

A smiling razor can be, a bit more challenging to hone, as you must use a rolling X stroke, and pay attention to your pressure, but with a little practice and some sharpie ink, you can easily get the hang of it.

Another excellent explanation! Thank you Marty.

Originally Posted by Grazor

Picked up a 5/8 Shumate Tungsteel a couple of years back. Plain Jane swayback, but I would rank it in my top 5 as far as shaves go. Been a few on Ebay lately that have gone for a fair price, would be a good start point for anyone wanting to try a smiler. If you still have sideburns from the '70s use the toe of the razor, it can be done...

I've got a Shumate Tungsteel as well (Shumate razors are always on my radar for acquisition) and it is one of my favorites. I find that mine will take a wickedly keen edge and that smiling blade is almost a perfect fit for my hallows.

The smiling blade is easier in some areas, but I generally get more irritation with a smiling blade, not less. I have a few of both types, but my very best shavers have a straight cutting edge (I have a relatively small collection though).

I think with smilers, technique needs to be modified some. A smiling blade gives me the chance (with careful planning) to use the heel and toe of the blade more effectively in curved areas like under the jaw and around the chin and nose.
However, it's a matter of trial and error (and equally sharp and smooth edges). In the end, each of our faces is different and is going to feel better being shaved differently.

That's what I like about this hobby...trial and error and varying advice help one find the perfect shave for him.

Originally Posted by trondsi

The smiling blade is easier in some areas, but I generally get more irritation with a smiling blade, not less. I have a few of both types, but my very best shavers have a straight cutting edge (I have a relatively small collection though).

Originally Posted by Haroldg48

I think with smilers, technique needs to be modified some. A smiling blade gives me the chance (with careful planning) to use the heel and toe of the blade more effectively in curved areas like under the jaw and around the chin and nose.
However, it's a matter of trial and error (and equally sharp and smooth edges). In the end, each of our faces is different and is going to feel better being shaved differently.

That's what I like about this hobby...trial and error and varying advice help one find the perfect shave for him.

I completely agree. The technique has to be a bit different with a smiling edge. I should also mention that I have very sensitive skin.

Smiling or straight doesn’t seem to contribute to razor burn for me, or the lack there of for that matter. As long as I have a rounded heal as I use those for the hollows of my neck. Would have to be an Sk1 for me to be able to use a smiler in the hollows of my neck.

Originally Posted by trondsi

The smiling blade is easier in some areas, but I generally get more irritation with a smiling blade, not less. I have a few of both types, but my very best shavers have a straight cutting edge (I have a relatively small collection though).

I think irritation is about soap, honing or usage. The geometry of the blade ,not so much.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

I think irritation is about soap, honing or usage. The geometry of the blade ,not so much.

For me, it's mostly the soap and the honing, but I also had to adjust pressure a bit with the smiling edge. The smaller area touching any part of the skin feels a bit more aggressive, so I use less pressure with a smiling edge. Otherwise I get more irritation.

Originally Posted by trondsi

For me, it's mostly the soap and the honing, but I also had to adjust pressure a bit with the smiling edge. The smaller area touching any part of the skin feels a bit more aggressive, so I use less pressure with a smiling edge. Otherwise I get more irritation.

Pressure is relative to angle. Like stropping, you can have all the pressure in the world on the spine as long as the edge is just floating.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Pressure is relative to angle. Like stropping, you can have all the pressure in the world on the spine as long as the edge is just floating.

Pressure is also force to surface area. So if you use the same force and same angle, the smaller area touching your skin (as in a curved edge vs straight) will exert higher pressure from the cutting edge on your skin.