Thread: Rust on razor

Hi. I'm wanting to get some antique razors but I'm not a razor restorer; just a honer & shaver (& im barely those things).
Wondering how detrimental rust is if it isn't on the actual shaving edge. For example:

Am I out of my league here?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Hi. Remove the active rust ASAP (the red stuff). I wouldn't say it will hurt the razor's edge any time soon, but it's going to eat the steel away, slowly, but surely. You can use some steel wool, with a bit of lubrication, like WD40. You should use WD to loosen it up at first, that helps to remove it. Once all the red rust is gone, you'll be left with black (passive) rust, or patina and some pitting. What you do then will be up to your personal preference, but the razor should be safe.

Oh and if the rust is at places, like top of the spine, tang, or tail, it won't be more than a cosmetic issue, once removed. What you don't want is rust anywhere near the edge, not just on the edge itself. This depends on the grind, like if the razor is hollow, you want little to no rust on the blade faces. If it's a heavier grind, some light rust and pitting may not be a problem... other than, obviously being a cosmetic issue. However, to judge how much rust is, or isn't a problem requires some skill. I've been wrong in judging this before, it's especially hard when you're looking at pictures online. Might be easier to see when you're actually holding a rusty razor in your hands.

Use a single edge razor blade, and cut the rust off first, then go to the steel wool and W-40, then some metal polish.

Should clean up nice

I start with CLR. I apply some with a toothbrush then scrub with a brass brush to remove most of the rust. Rinse thoroughly with cold water and dry. Any remaining rust can be removed with sanding or Steel Wool and WD-40.

The hard part is getting the rust from underneath the scales.

If you are not into unpinning and repinning scales, get with Substance. I am pretty sure he can help.

If you're not planning on a full cleanup, for whatever reason, IMHO I'd advise avoiding a razor in that condition. There are plenty of reasonably priced razors out there that would suit you more, cleaned up, honed and good to go. You won't have to worry about rust then.

@rolodave, good point. In my experience, getting to the rust around the pin is difficult, but not impossible. Soak in WD, rinse, repeat.. I mean rinse with WD There are solutions for stopping active rust, pacifying it if you will, more aggressive than WD40. We have something simply called anti-rust.. It's also important to rinse the blade afterwards and get all of that stuff out.... probably with more WD.

People use dental floss to get into the area. Although I can't imagine this helping much with rust, it helps with cleaning out various other gunk found in there.

There's another neat thing you can do, while cleaning the pivot.. I didn't quite realize this, until I was cleaning a razor with a set of transparent acrylic scales on. You load the pin area with WD, it will get trapped in there. Then take a paper towel and attach it firmly to where the tang meets the scales at the pivot. Watch that paper suck out the WD, along with the dirt, just like magic! Easy to see with transparent scales. Repeat this several times, or for as long as dirt is coming out. Leaving the pin soaked a while loosens more dirt and rust particles. Combined with dental floss, this can get it pretty clean in the end!

Originally Posted by Srdjan

@rolodave, good point. In my experience, getting to the rust around the pin is difficult, but not impossible. Soak in WD, rinse, repeat.. I mean rinse with WD There are solutions for stopping active rust, pacifying it if you will, more aggressive than WD40. We have something simply called anti-rust.. It's also important to rinse the blade afterwards and get all of that stuff out.... probably with more WD.

People use dental floss to get into the area. Although I can't imagine this helping much with rust, it helps with cleaning out various other gunk found in there.

There's another neat thing you can do, while cleaning the pivot.. I didn't quite realize this, until I was cleaning a razor with a set of transparent acrylic scales on. You load the pin area with WD, it will get trapped in there. Then take a paper towel and attach it firmly to where the tang meets the scales at the pivot. Watch that paper suck out the WD, along with the dirt, just like magic! Easy to see with transparent scales. Repeat this several times, or for as long as dirt is coming out. Leaving the pin soaked a while loosens more dirt and rust particles. Combined with dental floss, this can get it pretty clean in the end!

Just to add to this, "spiderwire"!!
Kevlar fishing line, thinner and stronger than dental floss, but more expensive.

+1 at what outback said. Spiderwire is some tough sh!t. Along with razors & fishing, it has many uses. I've used it for pulling wiring through handlebars & removing tank emblems on Harley's. A little off topic but if you have an adhesive backed emblem or medallion, you can use it in a back & forth motion like a saw but pulling under the adhesive at the same time. If it is a metal emblem, a little heat on it makes it even easier. Just FYI.

As said, unless it is a smoking deal, there are tons of pristine razors, in the wild. Once you start looking you will find them.

You may pay a bit more, but it will be worth it in the long run. Restoration, begins at purchase.

Avoid active rust, buy razors with the least amount of wear and that look like they will clean up with just a good polish. The problem with vintage razors that are a hundred years old or more is, we know nothing about how they were cared for.

Rust on the bevels can cause honing issues. That razor does not look that bad, but you will have to live with some pitting or lose the etch and the stamps.