Thread: Different Sharpness Test?

Originally Posted by Gasman

When saying "the bevels meet" this is at the edge.without any other seporate bevel also showing? Learning here so be nice. Ha.at this point the bevel is set and from then on your just getting out any grooves in the bevel?

Yes.

I've been using this description for years so here it is again. If you look at the blade from the end, the two sides meet to form the edge in a "V" shape. Before the bevels meet, the shape is more of a rounded "U" shape at the edge. Honing of the bevels must continue until they meet in that "V" shape along the entire length of the blade. It is the meeting of the two bevels that form the edge; and as you indicated, the bevels are set when those bevels meet.

Also, as you asked, after the bevels are set the next step is to remove the grooves, or scratches, from the bevels. The reason that this is important is because the depth of those scratches can extend all the way to edge where they result in a sawtooth pattern along the edge.

As the bevels are smoothed out by removing more steel from the surfaces of the bevels, the scratches are made more shallow and so the sawteeth in the edge also become progressively smaller. This is honing. Sounds easy, doesn't it?

Originally Posted by KenWeir

Just curious, where does the southern rug fit in that calibration scale?

It does not.

yep, honning sounds simple enough. at least the therory does. and if you always keep spine down flat how can you miss? im guessing the issue after learning this is to have the same amount of bevel on each side. guessing again here but counting strokes or timming and being sure of the same preasure should take care of that. so what is so hard about this honning thing?

Originally Posted by Gasman

yep, honning sounds simple enough. at least the therory does. and if you always keep spine down flat how can you miss? im guessing the issue after learning this is to have the same amount of bevel on each side. guessing again here but counting strokes or timming and being sure of the same preasure should take care of that. so what is so hard about this honning thing?

Pretty much everything.

I'm not certain if you are kidding or not. Once you give it a shot you will find out how challenging it can be. Nothing is straight. In some cases that is accidental and other times it is deliberate. Grinds can be uneven. Steel can be of variable quality. Honing is all about dealing with unpredictable surprises.

Originally Posted by Gasman

yep, honning sounds simple enough. at least the therory does. and if you always keep spine down flat how can you miss? im guessing the issue after learning this is to have the same amount of bevel on each side. guessing again here but counting strokes or timming and being sure of the same preasure should take care of that. so what is so hard about this honning thing?

Yes, and that assumes you're lucky enough to get a razor with perfect geometry. I've had one or two that lay flat, and setting the bevel and going up the progressions was text book - just had an Iwasaki razor like that, was a pleasure to hone.

Unfortunately, that is the exception, not the norm, and most razors have uneven spines, twisted or warped, uneven spine wear, or the blade itself has been honed unevenly (less metal towards to toe or heel, smile (good) or frowns (bad)) or something else wonky going on, and that's where honing a razor can become an exercise in hair pulling frustration, and where lots of experience is the key.

I use the HHT as my sharpness test. I test four different spots along the edge, front to heel. Hair should pop at the slightest touch of the bevel. No chopping.

My only 'perfect' blade is a Portland Razor Co. Leviathan. Easy honing for sure.

Others are close but even bevels from end to end and side to side are a rarity.

Originally Posted by Gasman

yep, honning sounds simple enough. at least the therory does. and if you always keep spine down flat how can you miss? im guessing the issue after learning this is to have the same amount of bevel on each side. guessing again here but counting strokes or timming and being sure of the same preasure should take care of that. so what is so hard about this honning thing?

In terms of having the same amount of bevel on both sides ......... what I picked up from doing it, was watching the water go up onto the bevel and belly of the blade. If it is going up one side and not the other (same amount) than I work on one side until I'm getting equal water up both sides. This isn't scientific, nor under magnification, it is just what I intuitively discovered, and I think I'm right.

Originally Posted by Phrank

Yes, and that assumes you're lucky enough to get a razor with perfect geometry.

Not for me. I do want a razor with the spin parallel for the entire length if possible, but I like smiling edges, so they will never lay flat. This is dealt with by manipulating the blade while honing, rolling x or whatever works. YMMV.

When I pick up a razor for the 1st time, I automatically use the thumb pad,. It gives me an idea of the shape of that razor. I'd have a look under a loupe at the edge, and, most likely based on that I'd go and strop it and shave. If it's a little off, I tend to joint it and start again. No point guessing and starting at say,8k level, just go back and create an edge you understand.