Results 1 to 7 of 7
21Likes
Thread: I bought 2 vintage blades
-
02-26-2017, 12:23 PM #1
I bought 2 vintage blades
I picked up 2 vintage blades yesterday from an antique dealers .
The first is a Crown . This one feels like a really nice piece of steel and would benefit from a full restoration.
It has a frown but being a hollow grind should be too much work to straighten up.
The scales and wedge are clumsy so they must go .
The second is a Taylors . Its a shame its tapered and the hone wear matches that . I might straighten it up and remove the hone ware lines or just leave it as it , although saying that, the experience of straightening a blade would be good for me.
I know I have 2 great shavers there . Cheap price too...
Last edited by JOB15; 02-26-2017 at 12:26 PM.
-
02-26-2017, 01:02 PM #2
Nice finds buddy. I've never seen a crown like that.
I'm thinking the Taylor was made that way, the etching and edge run parallel to each other.
Its still funny to me, that now your looking into other steel besides Sheffield, since our talk.
Have you any American steel yet?Mike
-
02-26-2017, 01:19 PM #3
-
02-26-2017, 01:30 PM #4
-
02-26-2017, 02:09 PM #5
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- Location
- Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
- Posts
- 17,295
Thanked: 3225Can't say I have found huge differences in steel quality between Swedish, German, English, French and American razors. They all have honed up well for me and shave well as a consequence. Over here the American made razors can be a bit of a bargain possibly due to the fact the foreign made seems to sometimes carry a bit of a cache to it.
BobLife is a terminal illness in the end
-
02-27-2017, 03:10 AM #6
Nothing wrong with the hone wear on the Taylors, purely aesthetic as is the taper. Hone it as is without any tape, at least initially, and it will undoubtedly hone up quite fine and the light taper won't affect the shave. Straightening the edge by removing metal at the heel will only cause further issues that need to be addressed. Removing metal at the heel on a blade ground with a stabilizer like this you will likely end up with the stabilizer then needing to be reground due to the stabilizer riding the hones and raising the heel off the hone. Continued honing to re-establish the bevel all the way across the newly straightened edge without regrinding the stabilizer more often than not results in excessive wear on the top and bottom of the stabilizer which in my opinion looks worse than the original light taper and wear biased toward the toe.
Last edited by silverloaf; 02-27-2017 at 03:13 AM. Reason: edited because I misspelled "the" :-)
Silverloaf
-
The Following User Says Thank You to silverloaf For This Useful Post:
outback (02-27-2017)
-
02-27-2017, 03:14 AM #7