Thread: Carbon steel oxidation/rust developing very rapidly

With steel patina is rust,dirt or crud on the steel. Copper, Aluminum & most non ferris metals do form a patina that protect the metal but really it is a form of oxidation. I have Razors from all over the world & have yet to have a problem like yours. The Renaissance is a good product to coat your razors with. A very light coat is just as good as a heavy coat. I use Ballistol with great success & it is so useful for many things in your shop & home. Ballistol has no mineral oils & I think that might help it protect the steel better. Plain old car wax works well also. The main thing is to keep oxygen & water off of the steel. Hope this helps!

Slawman

Originally Posted by Slawman

With steel patina is rust,dirt or crud on the steel. Copper, Aluminum & most non ferris metals do form a patina that protect the metal but really it is a form of oxidation. I have Razors from all over the world & have yet to have a problem like yours. The Renaissance is a good product to coat your razors with. A very light coat is just as good as a heavy coat. I use Ballistol with great success & it is so useful for many things in your shop & home. Ballistol has no mineral oils & I think that might help it protect the steel better. Plain old car wax works well also. The main thing is to keep oxygen & water off of the steel. Hope this helps!

Slawman

The only problem with this is that it doesn't explain what I see. I have one razor that oxidizes like crazy, while the others do not. The steel is supposedly the same for several of them (from Solingen).

It sounds like it is a 'special needs' blade. So I wouldn't tempt fate by repeating the same procedure that left it with stains to begin with. I'd either take special precautions with it, or I'd clean it well and put it in the classifieds. It is either worth the hassle or it is not.

As far as Ralf Aust's reply, he may have used google translate. One way or the other, I think all of the Solingen makers get their blanks from Herkenrath IIRC. At least that is what Robin says, if I'm not badly mistaken. So he is saying that he is not smelting the iron/steel, but forging or machining a blank. That is why he can be confident that it is the 'same' steel for one and all.

It does not seem to be badly affected by being stored "naked" in dry air (my book shelves)

OK, I had another shave with this one, and it does seem to react far less badly to the water/lather now, if at all. I could not see any new spots developing. My suspicion is that it is building a microscopic oxidized layer, which makes the blade less reactive (but what do I know). I deliberately left it unoiled for two days, so now I oiled it again after the shave (better safe than sorry)

On top of it all, it shaves extremely well now. Every time I have rinsed and dried it, I have also stropped it, and I think this has helped. This thing is super sharp and now also very smooth. Only the DD Wonderedge rivals it as a shaver now, and that says quite a lot (my Wonderedge has the best razor blade I have experienced, including all sorts straight razors and disposable blades. My Dovo silver steel also comes close to this).

Like I said previously, My first shave and even the second the blade spotted while shaving. I cleaned it and since have not had any noticeable issue. I do believe I put oil on it after the first couple uses but since have not. I have done what I do with any other blade, wipe dry with TP and strop and store. Good to go.