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Thread: Wheatsheaf Cutlery Co.
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07-01-2017, 09:36 PM #1
Wheatsheaf Cutlery Co.
Did a search on this and came up with little to no information on this one.
Loaded with pits, and covered with what appears to be sanding marks from a flap wheel sanding drum, I took it apart, cleaned the scales, put them in oil for the next three weeks, and started hand sanding with 400 grt. W/D paper only to find I needed something a lot more aggressive.
So out came the greaseless and a stitched wheel and dremmel till all was clear but one small spot of deep pitting. From there was back to hand sanding, working for a satin finish. After countless techniques and failures, I gave up on it, and sanded it out to 1500 grt. wetNdry paper, then with .5 micron paper. (All sanding done with oil)
Its now almost a mirror finish, so I turn to the dremmel and a rag wheel loaded with Emory and oil. The outcome was unbelievable, so a rag wheel and red rouge.....Oh my god..!!! To the other side of the blade.!! Will I get the same results!?? You damn right I did.[emoji41]
And I remembered the progression to get there, this time. [emoji6]
Pinned with small brass domes and pins,
I'm really happy with this one, hope y'all enjoy.
It also has a nice reflective quality too.
Pics don't do the justice that it has in hand. I don't know what finish to call it...Satinbrush.!? But I like it. [emoji56]Mike
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07-01-2017, 10:09 PM #2
That turned out beautiful Mike. Can you post a pic of the Dremel wheel you did that with? Thanks.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Mrchick For This Useful Post:
outback (07-01-2017)
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07-01-2017, 10:21 PM #3
Harbor freight.!
YMMVMike
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07-01-2017, 10:38 PM #4
Looks just like the ones I got from Amazon. Thanks.
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07-01-2017, 10:40 PM #5
It had to do with the Emory, for the most part. But the .5 micron paper was the last stage in sanding, and has a totally different pattern and material that the abrasives are attached to compared to W/D paper.
When I finished with this, the blade was at a mirrored finish, with faint scratch marks. When I buffed it with the rag wheel n Emory this is the effect I got, then turned to the red rouge for a final polish. The tang, tail, and spine were done for the most part by hand with 3M and a rag, the tough spots got a rag wheel and 3M with the dremmel. The only thing sanded were the faces of the blade.Mike
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07-01-2017, 11:53 PM #6
Great job well done, Mike! Love to see this one transformed and made right again. Nice post with the photos and tips, a lot to be happy about here - has me smiling! Hmmm... wonder what the Sunday SOTD will be
"Go easy"
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The Following User Says Thank You to xiaotuzi For This Useful Post:
outback (07-01-2017)
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07-02-2017, 12:01 AM #7
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to outback For This Useful Post:
BWH1980 (07-02-2017), cheetahmeatpheonix (01-07-2019)
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07-02-2017, 12:13 AM #8
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The Following User Says Thank You to xiaotuzi For This Useful Post:
outback (07-02-2017)
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07-02-2017, 12:23 AM #9
Just following the spine with plain ol x strokes. I think it may have only seen a hone a few times before it made it to me, like as many "fingers" I have on my hand at most. Water started flowing evenly over the length of the blade within 15 passes, but there's some chips in the bevel that still need removing.
Mike
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07-02-2017, 02:29 AM #10
Great job! Thank you for posting. You have motivated me to undertake my first restoration. To the maintenance and restoration section I go.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkEnjoy the day,
Benson
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to BWH1980 For This Useful Post:
Carlospppena (07-02-2017), outback (07-23-2017)