Thread: Wedge Information required

I have recently won on ebay a GEORGE WOSTENHOLM & SONS wedge (7/8), having been very interested in getting a wedge for sometime. Never having had one I would appreciate any advice on honing and using such a razor.

I have the following hones and pasted strops.

Norton 4k/8k
Swaty
Escher
Diamond 1, .5 and .25
Boron carbide/Chromium oxide

Regards

Terry

I have a Wade and Butcher that took about 30 strokes on the Norton and it is in perfect condition, but I also have several that have taken about 3 weeks to get perfect, with much work on a 1k stone. I tried with wet and dry paper and failed before buying a 1k stone.
I think it very much depends on the razor. Between the wedges I have honed there has been so much variation in technique needed depending on blade size, how straight the edge is, how wide the bevel is etc.
Maybe somebody more experienced could advise you with more info on the particular razor.

I haven't tried honing a wedge before...but I remember a post where Lynn said that a trick is to tape the spine throughout the whole honing process.

This would mean that you would be only removing metal from the cutting edge rather than the whole blade...Makes sense to me.

Honing a wedge depending on the condition of the edge is probably an advanced skill as far a honing goes. because the blade is so thick you have to remove alot of metal as opposed to a hollow grind so it can take a long time.

Its hard to give advice because we don't know the condition of the edge. If it appears good and bevel looks good it might just need a touch up. If the bevel looks bad and you have to reestablish it then your in for a looooong honing session. If a touch up is all it needs I would use the 8K or equivilent. If you have to reestablish the bevel and/or remove nicks you might start on the 1K or the 4K.

Speaking in very general terms you need to tape the spine with electrical tape. This will also eliminate additional wear on the spine of the razor.

Most wedges do not have a straight edge but rather a "smile".
I suggest you use an X pattern with the tip angled back 30-45 degrees. When you finish a stroke you should have about 1/2" of the tip of the razor razor still on the hone.

Try up to 100 laps on a 4K hone first, checking every 25 laps.
Be sure to use the magic marker trick and a microscope if you have one. If that does not do the trick then drop down to a 1000 grit until the magic marker is gone, it passes the Thumb nail test, and the bevel looks good.

Be sure to use some pressure when you are starting out. Remember that you are removing old, oxidised steel, undoing someone else's idea of a proper bevel and creating your own bevel.

Let us know your progress,

Originally Posted by thebigspendur

Honing a wedge depending on the condition of the edge is probably an advanced skill as far a honing goes. because the blade is so thick you have to remove alot of metal as opposed to a hollow grind so it can take a long time.

Its hard to give advice because we don't know the condition of the edge. If it appears good and bevel looks good it might just need a touch up. If the bevel looks bad and you have to reestablish it then your in for a looooong honing session. If a touch up is all it needs I would use the 8K or equivilent. If you have to reestablish the bevel and/or remove nicks you might start on the 1K or the 4K.

I recently bought a W&B 8/8 wedge blade from Iwan. It fell on his garage floor so it had 2 nicks of ~1 mm.
I haven't started work on that one yet, but I will have a merry time on the 1K I suspect.