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Thread: new razor rust

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth Speedster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob21 View Post
    @jfk742 - I don't know what a "single edge" or "de razor", so I will research a bit and report back.

    @outback - I guess no more alcohol then. I always thought that was recommended, this is so complicated. I think I'm just going to contact the store I bought it from in Thiers and see what their specific care recommendations are.

    I also forgot to mention that after I noticed the rust, I immediately put some olive oil on the entire blade since here mentioned that I can use that in a pinch:
    https://www.portlandrazorco.com/blog...o-prevent-rust

    I'm thinking of picking up some Camilla oil if I can get back to Japan before March. The flowers are in bloom everywhere at this time of year, so I should be able to get some fresh pressed oil or even do a tour and fresh press it myself.
    Avoid Camilla oil if at all possible; it gums up and becomes a real PITA to remove the longer its left on. Some here have recommended products like Tuf-Glide (I’ve been using this) or Ballistol.

    Your best bet remains to ensure you dry the blade after each use, even leaving the blade out to dry for a day like many of us do.

    *Edit — Also, note that 91% Isopropyl alcohol contains 9% water, so that’s the likely culprit.
    Last edited by Speedster; 02-15-2020 at 12:36 PM. Reason: Alcohol contains water
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  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    If where you live has a normal level of humidity, simply drying the razor with a wipe down of the blade and between the scales using toilet paper, a little stropping to make sure the edge is dry and then leaving out open for a few hours before putting away should be all you need to prevent rust forming.

    You have been given some good advice on how to try and remove rust. I would just add that etching and gold plating on razors are easily damaged/removed so a fair amount of caution when working around them is needed.

    No, you did not destroy your razor. It is just not as pristine as it was but should still provide you with years of excellent service.

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  3. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth bluesman7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobH View Post
    If where you live has a normal level of humidity, simply drying the razor with a wipe down of the blade and between the scales using toilet paper, a little stropping to make sure the edge is dry and then leaving out open for a few hours before putting away should be all you need to prevent rust forming.
    This is all I ever do, except I skip the leaving it out open part. The scales have plenty of room for air to circulate even with the razor closed. The important part is a good drying job with the toilet paper. I've never seen a problem
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    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob21 View Post
    @jfk742 - I don't know what a "single edge" or "de razor", so I will research a bit and report back.
    Here you go:
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    Come it at a low angle with edge close to parallel with the surface you are trying scrape, tip the edge away just a little and press down towards the rust spot and gently scrape the rust spot:

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    Quote Originally Posted by RezDog View Post
    I’m a big fan of anticorrosion emitters. You can get them from many places including Lee Valley. They are in my safe, gun cabinet, display cases and tool boxes. They last for five years, and you can also get VCI paper to wrap stored metal objects in. They work like a charm. After using and rinsing a blade I carefully make sure it is actually dry with toilet paper and them strop it and off it goes. Many people also use renwax. Oils can trap moisture.
    Hmm, I’m not sure about this just yet. I think I would need to have a box like enclosure to store it in. I will look into it.

    For the VCI paper, is that sold as a single sheet that I would reuse for a few years? Or is it more like Serran wrap, where you continually use new sheets?

    For the renwax, is that applied after every shave?

    Quote Originally Posted by JP5 View Post
    Cleaning the blade with alcohol shouldn't hurt anything if you completely clean/dry the blade before storing. If you are near the beach, sea air isn't helping.
    I use any rust inhibiting oil I have in the house.
    You didn't ruin the blade, just gave it some character. Some of my favorite razors have a lot of character.

    Remember, it could be worse.
    I live on an island, so yes, the air isn’t good for blades. What’s the story on the blade in your attachment? I really hope my blade doesn’t ever turn out like that.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cangooner View Post
    Just a plain old pencil can be handy in removing small spots like that. The graphite works well to take off the rust, and because it's a pencil, it's really easy to control.
    What’s the recommended method to take off the olive oil I used to try your method above?

    Quote Originally Posted by outback View Post
    I always let mine sit open in a flower frog, till the next day. Then I can put them away without any worries.

    I never oil my blades.
    I did a search for “flower frog razor” but didn’t get any hits. Is this something specifically made for razor storage or something you improvised?

    @jfk742 : Thank you for the visuals! I think I will try this after I figure out how to remove the olive oil I used.

    Thank you everyone for the encouragement though, I was really worrying about it. I will try to be more careful from now on.
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  6. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    Emitters work in a container for sure. The paper lasts for quite a while. It can be bought in small packages, I think the manufacture that made mine says they are good for five years. Island life can be harsh for certain. Cars and trucks here and where you are have quite a bit shorter of lifespans. Pm me if you would like a few sheets.
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  7. #17
    Moderator rolodave's Avatar
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    VCI paper is pretty cheap. I bought 500 sheets a few years ago for about $20

    500 sheets is now $40 shipped.
    Last edited by rolodave; 02-16-2020 at 10:43 AM.
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  8. #18
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Just look up flower frogs.

    They sat in a shallow pan of water, have holes in the bottom to let water in for the bouquet of cut flowers.

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  9. #19
    Senior Member Jnatcat's Avatar
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    Fairly easy to remove those small spots, if it were mine I would tape over the etching and then use a small amount of Flitz polish on the edge but after polishing it ma have to be honed again
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  10. #20
    Incidere in dimidium Cangooner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob21 View Post

    What’s the recommended method to take off the olive oil I used to try your method above?

    .
    I'm a fan of keeping things as mild as possible. So while something like acetone will de-oil the blade for you, I'd start with warm water and dish soap. It gets olive oil off the dishes, right?
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