Thread: EBRO flee market razor

found this one this past Sunday for $1.00 the pivot was held together with blue painters tape.



And this one is from another few I picked up 2 weeks ago and thought it was the best of the bunch. I have just got a chance to try to clean it. it only had a small rust spot but turned out to be the worst one of them all.

The first one will have pitting left even after some hand work. Unless you have a belt grinder. It could be made to shave.
The second one is going to loose a lot of heal to fix. It can be done. This is the problem with buying razors and not knowing what to look out for. We have all been there. Get to sanding!

Both together cost the same as a coffee from DD so the loss would not be great. I do have a belt grinder but am more concerned about the pivot hole being elongated.

Originally Posted by Audels1

Both together cost the same as a coffee from DD so the loss would not be great. I do have a belt grinder but am more concerned about the pivot hole being elongated.

I am no expert on how big is too big on the pivot hole, but there are ways to fix it. Use the advanced search to find more, but I just found this one.

https://sharprazorpalace.com/worksho...ml#post1453240

PS: Saw two links in Rezdog' post and just linked to his. One goes to GSSixgun's illustrated guide and the other goes to the workshop sticky library that references GSSixgun's illustrated guide. Oh well, must be good advice.

Many razors still have an elogated hole. Even after restoring. My understanding it they were punched from each side and just were not lined up as well as they should have been. It doesnt move much in the scales but if your concerned about it you can leave a tiny bit more room in the scales to when it shifts it wont hit the wedge.

Or fill the hole with a piece of tubing the right size if you can. Solder the hole or used some soft metal of some type to fill and redrill. Lots of ways to skin a cat. Just don't tell my wife I said that.

No, belt sander!

Heat is a blade killer, just takes a second, literally.

A 1k diamond plate or 1k stone will reshape it just fine, and more importantly safely. You can buy a $30 1k /600 diamond file, that make this kind of work a snap and gives way better control. With a diamond file you can work with the edge up and remove just enough material and see exactly what you are doing.

Draw an arc with a sharpie and large coin or washer, so that you remove the least amount of steel. WD40 removes ink if you want to make a correction. Or a $30 CNTG 1k/400 diamond plate, or a 1k stone. The plate can be used to lap stones.

The scales may be saved with CA or epoxy, clean well first especially the joint. Sand smooth with 600 grit when dry. Save all the sanding dust and use as filler with CA or epoxy.

Glue together on a piece of waxed paper and flat surface, hold them together glue with CA and spray a kicker. Then build up a layer on inside and outside, with CA or epoxy with sanding dust, fill the hole and re-drill. Save all the sanding dust and use as filler with CA or epoxy.

CA is easier and quicker to work with.

The pivot hole is a non- issue and most probably has been like that since new. It will pin just fine, with just a 1/16th inch pin.

Take your time, do not rush and you can learn a lot from these kinds of repairs. As long as the steel is good you can make shavers from these kinds of projects.

Buy up all the cheap razors you can find and experiment with repairs and honing.

Horn is very forgiving, easy to work and finishes well with just sandpaper and any good metal polish.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

No, belt sander!

Heat is a blade killer, just takes a second, literally.

A 1k diamond plate or 1k stone will reshape it just fine, and more importantly safely. You can buy a $30 1k /600 diamond file, that make this kind of work a snap and gives way better control. With a diamond file you can work with the edge up and remove just enough material and see exactly what you are doing.

Draw an arc with a sharpie and large coin or washer, so that you remove the least amount of steel. WD40 removes ink if you want to make a correction. Or a $30 CNTG 1k/400 diamond plate, or a 1k stone. The plate can be used to lap stones.

The scales may be saved with CA or epoxy, clean well first especially the joint. Sand smooth with 600 grit when dry. Save all the sanding dust and use as filler with CA or epoxy.

Glue together on a piece of waxed paper and flat surface, hold them together glue with CA and spray a kicker. Then build up a layer on inside and outside, with CA or epoxy with sanding dust, fill the hole and re-drill. Save all the sanding dust and use as filler with CA or epoxy.

CA is easier and quicker to work with.

The pivot hole is a non- issue and most probably has been like that since new. It will pin just fine, with just a 1/16th inch pin.

Take your time, do not rush and you can learn a lot from these kinds of repairs. As long as the steel is good you can make shavers from these kinds of projects.

Buy up all the cheap razors you can find and experiment with repairs and honing.

Horn is very forgiving, easy to work and finishes well with just sandpaper and any good metal polish.

I am finally seeing a use for my Dremel workstation press that I have owned for 6 years but have never assembled.

Originally Posted by Audels1

I am finally seeing a use for my Dremel workstation press that I have owned for 6 years but have never assembled.

I’ve found that it is perfect for drilling out pins. The only drawback is that the Dremel is a quite high rpm device, so be careful. Check that the drill bit is going exactly where you want before powering up and go slow.

I have also found that it is a cheap substitute for a buffer when mounted horizontally. It still revs so fast you have to be careful it doesn’t grab the blade and send it flying or overheat the steel.

Originally Posted by DZEC

I’ve found that it is perfect for drilling out pins. The only drawback is that the Dremel is a quite high rpm device, so be careful. Check that the drill bit is going exactly where you want before powering up and go slow.

I have also found that it is a cheap substitute for a buffer when mounted horizontally. It still revs so fast you have to be careful it doesn’t grab the blade and send it flying or overheat the steel.

Im also thinking it may function as a mini drum sander

I have use a Dremel for a variety of uses when doing razor repair. Each time I do, they scare the crepe out of me. I use them at the slowest speed, mostly with radial wheel for removing rust, never for polishing. A flex shaft gives you lots more control.

Every Dremel user that has used them for any time, has a horror story, but then so do buffer users, but at least you have two hands on the razor.

Be careful, think out what you are about to do and stay well away from the edge. I remove the edge of every razor with a 600-grit diamond file. A good safety practice.