Thread: Rust-no-more?

Originally Posted by Russel Baldridge

http://www.ighunters.net/metal/electrolysis/equip.htm

Just an FYI.

This link says to use a stainless steel fork/spoon as it will disintegrate slower, but a lot of the google'd links I've read say that using stainless makes the water solution toxic/illegal to dump.

I don't get a pic of Mike Ratliff's razor. Is it there and I don't see it?
I am VERY interested in the electrolysis
The bags, from the first post, work well. I keep guns and knives in them. Come in all sizes...EVEN Rifle

I just want to ad that I've used evapo-rust to remove rust from my 1961 lambretta. It basically does no harm to the paint while removing the rust. It may be a good alternative if you do not want to worry about toxic chemicals, as you can pour this in the yard. It works by a process called chelation, and may be of benefit if other methods are dangerous to your scales, (ie. naval jelly will take off all that pretty original paint).

aaron

--the whole side panel was dipped in a large flat container of evapo-rust--

before


after

Yeah, I would DEFINITELY recommend doing some research on the electrolysis process BEFORE trying it. It's a chemical/electrical process that needs to be understood THOROUGHLY.

I've used on car parts with good results, and I didn't use stainless steel for the anodes, i used iron.

DO THIS OUTSIDE, you'll see it bubble as it's working, I'm pretty sure this is hydrogen gas, not lethal in these doses BUT NOT GOOD either.

Oh, and I'm starting a thread in the restoration section for electrolysis if anyone wants to move over there.