Thread: L. Lowe Co (any info?)

I got this razor off ebay and was just curious if anyone has any information about it. Originally had thought it may be some type of laminated steel, given the stamp "Laminated Steel" and the damascus-like pattern. When cleaning it up, however, most of the pattern that was on the tang (was very light there) came off, if it were laminated steel of some sort would it do that? The pattern is still present on the face and back-side of the blade and the top of the blade. It doesn't approach the very edge of the razor and appears almost 'stamp-like' there. Can't seem to find any info on this razor, so if anyone knows anything about this brand any info appreciated. Thanks. Stamps on the blade are as shown in the images.

If laminated or Damascus steels are polished smooth the pattern is lost. It is made visible again by acid etching, which affects the two types of steel of which these composite steels are made to differing degrees, revealing the pattern. (I have done this on gun barrels, prior to browning them.)
Sorry - I do not know anything about the maker, but it certainly looks like an interesting razor. It will be nice to see how it shaves.

Duncan.

I' m jalous again,
very nice damas you got there,
but I'm still broken, soon I'll get mine

Originally Posted by Yorkshireman

If laminated or Damascus steels are polished smooth the pattern is lost. It is made visible again by acid etching, which affects the two types of steel of which these composite steels are made to differing degrees, revealing the pattern. (I have done this on gun barrels, prior to browning them.)
Sorry - I do not know anything about the maker, but it certainly looks like an interesting razor. It will be nice to see how it shaves.

Duncan.

Ahh I'm guessing that's not like etching a specific pattern onto the blade but more so the presence of it revealing the pattern as you mentioned. Perhaps when I finish polishing this one up, just did some course stuff, before I get scales on it I'll have to find a way to have that done so the pattern will come back where I've polished away rust.

You mentioned you had done it before .. how would I go about doing that? Is it something I could do without much trouble from home? Thanks for your response

Use dilute phosphoric acid (remember - acid to water, not water to acid) and immerse for as long as is required to get the etch you want. Brush off the muck & bubbles occasionally so you can see how it is going. When you are satisfied with the etch, rinse the blade in cold water, then soda to neutralize any traces of acid, then hot water so that it dries completely. Then oil the blade before it rusts. Any questions or problems - just ask.

Duncan.

Sweet thanks. Is phosphoric acid readily available at places like home depot, etc. or where would I be able to find it? I remember from Chemistry dealing with pH and pOH of solutions, took two semesters for college and the adding acid to water and not vice versa because of it being an exothermic reaction (gives off energy) and if done vice versa the rapid reaction causes it to boil over and splash all over the place (flying acid not good ). Is there a certain dilution that I should use? How many parts water to part acid? Some pH I'm trying to get or does it matter that much? Thanks for the assistance with this.

Scientific chemical suppliers, such as those used by schools, or old-fashioned chemists shops should have the acid in suitably small quantities. I have not found the dilution to be critical - somewhere around one part 98% orthophosphoric acid to 5 parts water should do it.

Ok, I was thinking also after I'm done with the acid how I would neutralize it, with salt (NaCl) or another way to make the solution about neutral on the pH scale so it's no longer acidic. Would regular table salt work to neutralize the solution once I'm done? Or should I use something else? You mentioned using soda, is that as in just plain baking soda?

Baking Soda

Getting any of the acid is not looking promising. Vendors only sell to schools, businesses or other registered professionals which is completely understandable given it's a tri-protic acid H3PO4 that after reaction in solution is definately going to cause phosphate compounds to be formed that are toxic. Can't really be disposed of readily after use, even after neutralized.

I think I may just write a UH professor and see if he'll allow me to do it as an experiment for his class or something sometime since I'm sure they have access to the acid, safe handling procedures as well as can allow for proper disposal of it afterwards. My guess at this point is thats the only way this would happen.