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11-09-2008, 06:15 PM #21
quick example
Here's an Electric razor that I was talking about earlier in this thread. This came out 2.5" rather than 2, but you get the idea.
It took me about 30 minutes with the dremel: I started with 1/4" diameter barrel rough grit, and finish polished with those weird soft grey disks. It could use a bit more finesse, but it's a viable option for cracked blades.
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11-09-2008, 06:21 PM #22
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Thanked: 77I don't know anything about working with tempered steel. Any idea how hard/easy it is to ruin the temper? Especially towards the edge where it's so thin.
...and it just occurred to me that I am assuming all razors are tempered?Last edited by Quick; 11-09-2008 at 06:25 PM.
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11-09-2008, 06:25 PM #23
If you get really heavy handed, you can generate some heat pretty fast, BUT...
I use a variable speed dremel, and kept my fingers right by the area I was grinding so I could feel for heat build-up. Light passes and keep the contact area moving, and you will be fine. Piece of cake.
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11-09-2008, 06:33 PM #24
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Thanked: 77Haha. I'm inspired! I have a dremel and some skillz
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doh. it might be a while though. My current list:
Silver tip badger brush
New soap
New cream
DMT D8C
Shapton 1K, 4K, 8K
Shapton 16K
Throw away ebay razor for practice grind
Dovo Ebony 5/8 spike point for modification.
oh yea, got to fit the kid's Xmas presents in there somewhere....
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11-10-2008, 05:46 PM #25
How old are your kids? chances are if they are young enough although they'll be disappointed now in the future they won't even remember this Christmas. Tell them a smooth cheek to kiss is the present you're giving them.
Red
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11-10-2008, 08:42 PM #26
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Thanked: 77
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11-10-2008, 08:54 PM #27
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11-11-2008, 01:22 AM #28
Quick update: I just shaved with the razor above, and I have to say I liked it! A different feel for sure, and the two spike-type points make you watch your edges, but it was kinda neat.
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11-11-2008, 04:22 AM #29
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Thanked: 77I'll read that as "Quick [, I have an] update [for you]:"
Today I was trying to shave with less of a blade angle. Amazing that all these people with experience were right... less angle works a lot better and I've been shaving wrong for about 20 years now. Oh well. I'll see if I can change but I suspect it may be a lot like my golf swing -- many years of a fundamentally flawed stroke firmly ingrained in muscle memory. Shaving is more of a concious act so there may be hope. So anyway, I'm fiercly concentrating on using the very slightest of angles and carefully running down the straight-edge line of my sideburn when it dawns on me that I'm hearing extra shaving sounds. Yes, yet again I've carved a little further into my goatee with the heel.
Could you describe the dremel excercise with a little more detail? I may have to accelerate my plans to buy a practice razor and then maybe move on to modify my first line razors. You said you used the 1/4 sanding drum? and low speed. I have some grinding drums as well. Any pointers? Did you just free hand it or did you draw a pattern first? About how much time to make the rough cut? any issues when you got towards the edge? any special edge treatment or restoration when you were done?
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11-11-2008, 11:03 PM #30
Actually, I just measured the drum and I used the 1/2" size.
I took a fine point black permanent marker and drew the shape I wanted...and then I squinted at it by a dark background to make sure I liked the end result. I like the straight off the tang idea, so I went with that.
I move the drum the whole time, but spend more time on the shoulder since the blade wears down fast comparatively. I actually knocked the shoulder down to within 1/64" or so of my final thickness before I did the last 1/16" final contour of the blade.
I made sweeping passes, trying to keep the movement fluid, since that's the kind of curve I was looking for. I also rested the spine of the razor on the deck railing to keep it steady as I made passes, since I have shaky hands most times.
Stay away from the final blade width until you are using the finish grit, just to make sure you don't overdo it.
The rough cut took about 25 minutes, and the finishing with the grey stone disk thingy took about 5-ish.
I beveled the edges of the tang and the blade I notched ever so slightly to keep a nice feel. I would use sandpaper for this unless you are very confident in your hand skills.
If you look, you will see I eased the new corner a bit, since I don't want a TRUE spike point...hey D.E. blades do that too, so good enough for me.
Go easy, use a light touch. Think finesse, not hogging metal when you are working at the edge. The shoulder is where you can use some pressure to get the job done.
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The Following User Says Thank You to joke1176 For This Useful Post:
Quick (11-12-2008)