Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Senior Member Big Red's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Fresno, CA
    Posts
    1,068
    Thanked: 130

    Default More info. please joseph Elliot

    Hoping for some more information on this razor. I think I ebayed it for abotu 55 bucks, it looks in great shape to me and blade style was a bit different. ivory in fantastic condition. one side starting to turn buttery yellow. no cracks I can find, one teensy tiny pin prick or something by one pin, you can see in pic before I cleaned it out. not sure how to sterilize ivory by the way. I had the pin tightened so now it is super snug. not sure if I should sell after getting honed and trying it out, I guess the shave quality will determine that. information? thoughts?






  2. #2
    Senior Member AlanII's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    1,689
    Thanked: 244

    Default

    Very well respected Sheffield manufacturer. You have a very nice blade there. Have to admit, I thought the first shot of the scales was plastic but since my experience of ivory is extremely limited, I'll leave it to other more knowledgeable posters to comment.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Big Red's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Fresno, CA
    Posts
    1,068
    Thanked: 130

    Default

    any more info? I'm curious as to age, I' figuring pre-1890 as somebody said after that they had to have the country stamped?

    Red

  4. #4
    W&B, Torrey, Filarmonica fanboy FatboySlim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    605
    Thanked: 252

    Default

    I'm no expert, but I'll try to offer suggestions for further resources.

    Uniclectica is a great resource for establishing rough ages of manufacture for various makers.

    According to this resource, your razor is stamped "Joseph Elliot" with the C and reversed C, with a cross in between. It says this trademark was in effect between 1821 - 1854. I wouldn't have guessed that looking at the razor, it looks more modern. Most razors this age that I've seen are wedge grind, yours is a light hollow grind.

    "The Standard Guide To Razors" by Ritchie and Stewart can be purchased for about $13 online, and has lots of good information, including a chart that establishes approximate timelines for various features.

    From that chart, I see two more pieces of info:
    Your razor is marked "Best Silver Steel". This marking was used between 1820 - 1880.
    Your razor has a light hollow grind, placing it between 1830 - 1880.

    The Import Act was passed in 1892, requiring a country of origin to be stamped on the blade because of counterfeiting by foreign razor makers. Your blade has no country stamp, so it's pre-1892.

    Your razor has a lead spacer in the scales. In my own limited experience so far, I haven't seen this in razors made after the early 1900s.

    The scales of your razor have very little curve, which is indicative of earlier razors, 1820 - 1860.

    I wouldn't know real ivory if you poked me in the eye with it. But I think your razor is from the 1850s. I'd guess it's easily pre-1890.

    The downloads section of SRP has a lot of good resources on identifying age and real ivory, check that link. Hope this helps.

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to FatboySlim For This Useful Post:

    Big Red (12-18-2008)

  6. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Essex, UK
    Posts
    3,816
    Thanked: 3164

    Default

    It's a lovely piece! I'd be very tempted to keep it.

    Definitely looks like ivory to me. It bleaches in sunlight, perhaps that is why one side is a different colour. The moisture content of the ivory can be critical - dehydration can lead to cracks, over-hydration can lead to swelling and distortion plus more cracks when it dries. Some cleaning fluids have too much water in them and are over aggressive - they will take that nice surface patina off. Rubbing with a tiny amount of light mineral oil or glycerin on a dry cloth is a gentle way to clean ivory. Not all oils are good though - the oils in your skin, for example, will promote discolouration. Some people use a white rubber (eraser) to remove small marks. Don't remove the patina (surface coat or sheen) as this has built-up naturally over the years and is, in fact, protecting the ivory.

    Sterilizing could be a bit of a problem - you don't want to soak the scales really. Maybe a 50/50 or 75/25 mix of alcohol and water would be better, as it will evaporate quickly. Try to apply it with cotton buds rather than soaking, though.

    Tim - some great info - I think you have the age about right. Re: lead spacers - I've seen them in 1920s and 1930s german razors.

    Regards,
    Neil

  7. #6
    Senior Member Big Red's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Fresno, CA
    Posts
    1,068
    Thanked: 130

    Default

    that's exactly what I was looking for! thanks a lot guys. I think I may hold onto it if it turns out to be a good shaver for me. I do like the way the blade is shaped, I don't know what you'd call that tip but it is pretty cool looking overall.

    I knew they were real ivory because of my antique piano and its keys, I could tell they were the same, then I had sent it to have the pins tightened and that guy confirmed it too.

    Red

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •