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  1. #11
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    from my thoughts
    if doing stainless steel
    the ABEL and cpm154 would be my first picks
    i have used
    1080
    1084
    1084FG
    1095
    W1
    52100
    O1
    cpm3v (not cpmS30v)
    and cpm154
    and there are more i would like to try (hope i didnt miss any)

  2. #12
    "My words are of iron..."
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevint View Post
    I usually ask a smith what works best for him- from which can he coax the highest performance- and then discuss which are the most important aspects to you.

    Personally I would not consider nickel alloyed damascus to be high performance so it'd be off my list. ...
    I think your first comment is well taken. The secret to gaining the best performance from any steel will lie in the heat treatment.

    When you say nickel alloyed, what kind of stuff are you talking about? The steel du jour for making pattern welded steel is most commonly 15N20. That is a nickel alloy of 1075 that contains about 2% nickel, otherwise there isn't much contrast and the pattern doesn't look good to most folks. Pure nickel will never harden...makes for a very pretty contrast, but the non-hardening part is risky if not done well. Hmm, I see a PW experiment in the near future.
    “Nothing discloses real character like the use of power. Most people can bear adversity. But if you wish to know what a man really is, give him power.” R.G.Ingersoll

  3. #13
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    15n20 will take an edge that you can shave with but 100% N will never get hard and take a fine edge

    L6 is used for the same (bright but holds an edge)

  4. #14
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by L R Harner View Post
    L6 is used for the same (bright but holds an edge)
    I think Tim Zowada uses L6 and O1 for his damascus
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

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