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  1. #1
    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    When you are starting out, a larger, heavier blade may be easier, but once you learn to shave with a straight, you should be able to shave with anything.

    Choosing a size/grind/style/etc is really based on personal preferences as to what you like, as well as what your shaving style is. I have found that larger blades require less finesse, whereas I have to be much more careful with a full hollow. But, as xman said, sharp is sharp, and any sharp razor will give a great shave.

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    Quote Originally Posted by holli4pirating View Post
    When you are starting out, a larger, heavier blade may be easier, but once you learn to shave with a straight, you should be able to shave with anything.

    Choosing a size/grind/style/etc is really based on personal preferences as to what you like, as well as what your shaving style is. I have found that larger blades require less finesse, whereas I have to be much more careful with a full hollow. But, as xman said, sharp is sharp, and any sharp razor will give a great shave.
    I agree completely with this statement.

    Wedges and quarter hollows are easier in the sense that they're forgiving of bad shaving technique. But they're harder to hone up and to maintain. So it's sort of a conundrum for newbs with thick beards.

    I have a very thick beard and my favorite razor is a 5/8 full hollow. But in my first six months I swore up and down that my beard needed either a quarter hollow or 7/8+ full hollow, nothing less.

    My recommendation is a 6/8 or at most 7/8 full hollow for now. You'll have more and earlier success honing it, and its flexiness while shaving will steer you towards better technique even as its size and weight give you that umph needed to tackle the chin while you're still perfecting your technique.

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  4. #3
    I'm your huckleberry stdreb27's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dylandog View Post
    I agree completely with this statement.

    Wedges and quarter hollows are easier in the sense that they're forgiving of bad shaving technique. But they're harder to hone up and to maintain. So it's sort of a conundrum for newbs with thick beards.

    I have a very thick beard and my favorite razor is a 5/8 full hollow. But in my first six months I swore up and down that my beard needed either a quarter hollow or 7/8+ full hollow, nothing less.

    My recommendation is a 6/8 or at most 7/8 full hollow for now. You'll have more and earlier success honing it, and its flexiness while shaving will steer you towards better technique even as its size and weight give you that umph needed to tackle the chin while you're still perfecting your technique.
    Well, that is good because right now I have a 5/8th full hollow according to a previous poster... I'm still kind of feeling my way around my face, and forget the neck. I have hairs going all sorts of different directions. When I finally get my strop this week, hopefully, I'll get to really experience a good shave. And address the neck.

    I think I'll pickup that wedge for sale, if I can ever get this guy to pm me back.

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    Not stropping the razor you have may be most of the issue you have been experiencing!


    Stropping can make a remarkable difference in the keeness of the edge, and therefore ease of tackling whiskers.


    If you have a genuine leather belt, that's fairly thick and flat, you can loop that around a towel bar and strop away on there until you get a proper strop (NOTE: avoid the part of the belt distorted by rear belt loop!).

    That will actually work quite well. You will have to use the X pattern. I did this while I awaited my first strop,and I was very impressed by what a difference it made, even on a freshly honed (and thus, I thought not needing to be stropped) razor.

  6. #5
    I'm your huckleberry stdreb27's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seraphim View Post
    Not stropping the razor you have may be most of the issue you have been experiencing!


    Stropping can make a remarkable difference in the keeness of the edge, and therefore ease of tackling whiskers.


    If you have a genuine leather belt, that's fairly thick and flat, you can loop that around a towel bar and strop away on there until you get a proper strop (NOTE: avoid the part of the belt distorted by rear belt loop!).

    That will actually work quite well. You will have to use the X pattern. I did this while I awaited my first strop,and I was very impressed by what a difference it made, even on a freshly honed (and thus, I thought not needing to be stropped) razor.
    yeah, I know, still waiting they said they were shipping yesterday. Still haven't shipped yet, I should probably call em, starting to get annoyed.
    However, as for the belt, all my leather belts have stitching on them, figured that wouldn't be good for the blade. So I don't shave, which is fine for me, it is a chore to bust out my mach 5 and shave. And a painful experience.

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    I'm your huckleberry stdreb27's Avatar
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    I've got another question, this is what the guy said about the wedge.

    The other imperfection is that the face of the blade isn\'t as smoothly contoured as when it comes out of an actual grinder. You can notice this in the way the light comes off the face of the blade in some of the photos. I can\'t actually feel the dips when I run my finger along the face, but it\'s noticeable under the correct angles of light.

    I'm assuming he means the bevel where the edge begins isn't quite straight. Is that something that requires grinding to make shave ready?

    My goal is to have a couple of blades that all I have to do is strop for a while. Till I decide to completely jump in. Or stick with a disposable.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Joed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stdreb27 View Post
    I've got another question, this is what the guy said about the wedge.

    The other imperfection is that the face of the blade isn\'t as smoothly contoured as when it comes out of an actual grinder. You can notice this in the way the light comes off the face of the blade in some of the photos. I can\'t actually feel the dips when I run my finger along the face, but it\'s noticeable under the correct angles of light.

    I'm assuming he means the bevel where the edge begins isn't quite straight. Is that something that requires grinding to make shave ready?

    My goal is to have a couple of blades that all I have to do is strop for a while. Till I decide to completely jump in. Or stick with a disposable.
    Yep. Honing is a very mild and gentle form of grinding whixh uses a much finer grit. After you finish honing the blade the edge will be fine.

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