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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill S View Post
    I have a Feather and have used all three of the common types of blades produced for it. I have also used the Feather blades in an injector and a Classic Cobra. They are, for sure, about as sharp as you would ever want in a razor. At least they feel that way which may be a byproduct of their coating, as mparker points out.

    It has been my experience that a few of my conventional straights will reach the same level of apparent sharpness as a Feather. They are all customs with very hard blades and well refined and polished edges (again, to mparker's point). One in particular seems to get even sharper than a Feather. That could be because Lynn played around with it with a Charnley, an Asagi and some diamond spray at the last NC get together and then I shaved with it. Whatever the reason, the thing gets wickedly keen.

    Note that once a Feather has a few shaves on it the sharpness drops back to that of a really good shave ready straight and it is much smoother than when it is new. I find that I get a better shave with a conventional straight than with the Feather. They both give you a "sticky" smooth face, but the Feather shave starts to develop stubble sooner than the shave with a straight.
    I too have tried the Feather and the different disposable blades. The Pro Guard comes closest to a well-honed straight right out of the box. The other two are much more likely to cut you than any a regular straight. But even here, you can quickly get used to the sharpness (and the much flatter blade angle) and the weepers will stay away. After 4-5 shaves, the Pro Super shaves like a regular straight.

    Some folks run the blade along styrofoam or cork to take away some of the harshness.

    I used to think that the sharpest possible blade would be the best thing. Regular straights are better, in my experience, because they are quite forgiving and many of the different grinds give excellent feedback.

  2. #12
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Certain straights !!!!!

    I really think it comes down to that statement, There are certain straights out there that can get as "sharp" if not "sharper" then Feathers... As Mr Parker pointed out there is an absolute level at which the "thinness" of the cutting edge stops... Let's just say there are certain straights that reach that level....Or they reach that level of slickness or polish on the bevel that make them just a touch "sharper" then their cousins... Anyone who has honed a lot of razors has found them, in my experience they are normally American brands with extra hollow grinds....Oh yeah, and it is usually not all of that type, like not every single Green Lizard 131b or every single Shumate #850, it is like certain ones everything came together right with....
    Last edited by gssixgun; 09-12-2009 at 08:35 AM.

  3. #13
    . Bill S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Certain straights !!!!!

    I really think it comes down to that statement, There are certain straights out there that can get as "sharp" if not "sharper" then Feathers...

    Please work as hard as possible this week, there are millions of people depending on your paycheck ....
    "The Obama Administration"
    Yes. Agree completely.

  4. #14
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    I think they can both be equally as sharp. What you get with teh Feather for the first couple of shaves anyhow, is the friction reducion PTFE coating which really helps out with glide.

    I took 200x pics comparing a new Feather edge with a self honed edge. The Feather actually looked a bit rougher, which may have something to do with the PTFE coating, but I'm not sure.

    Feather 200x:




    Sheffield steel 200x:

    Last edited by Seraphim; 09-12-2009 at 02:27 PM.

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  6. #15
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    I'm relatively new to all of this (using straights for about 3 months), but subjectively, from using both, I'd say the Feather is far sharper, and I've bought some razors from honemeisters like Sham and Lynn.

    I learned to shave with the feather, then bought a few real straights. If you don't use a REALLY light touch with the feather, you will look pretty piratical. If you do get used to using the feather without nicking yourself, you'll find that a straight gives you lots more latitude on pressure, angle, etc. and that you will give yourself some great shaves from the start.

    Having used both, a well honed straight gives a shave that feels as smooth as what you get with the feather, and I think it is a better experience. The feather shave may not show a 5:00 shadow as quickly though, so perhaps it is a little closer.

    Those are my very subjective observations.

  7. #16
    Member AFDavis11's Avatar
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    I rarely hone a razor as sharp as a Feather. That comes form a lack of skill and motivation. I find the Feather will actually thin out the skin if used several days in a row.

    I sold mine quickly, before I really learned how to use one. I invite all those that suggest there is no such thing as too sharp to use a Feather everyday for a week. Yuck!!

    I'm of the notion that if you can't keep count of the nicks you get with a razor its not worth using.

    The feather does lack smoothness as the pic shows. They are sharp and unsmooth.

  8. #17
    World Traveler and Connoisseur cubed1's Avatar
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    I've had many barbershop shaves in which the barber in question, cracked in a brand new feather blade and the results were comparable to a bad day with the straight. A couple self healing weepers, no visible stubble, but only close to BBS with the grain.

    In fact, I went in for a shave with a week or so growth and the barber broke out a fresh feather, then did half my face and replaced his blade again to finish. It seems the feather blade doesn't allow for enough flexibility in cutting angle to really get into all the nooks and crannies of the face with out taking some of it off.

    Cheers!

  9. #18
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubed1 View Post
    I've had many barbershop shaves in which the barber in question, cracked in a brand new feather blade and the results were comparable to a bad day with the straight. A couple self healing weepers, no visible stubble, but only close to BBS with the grain.

    In fact, I went in for a shave with a week or so growth and the barber broke out a fresh feather, then did half my face and replaced his blade again to finish. It seems the feather blade doesn't allow for enough flexibility in cutting angle to really get into all the nooks and crannies of the face with out taking some of it off.

    Cheers!
    How do you know they were feather blades?

  10. #19
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    I must admit that I followed this thread with great interest. I've been DE shaving for some years, and have been wanting to switch to a STR8, and thought that the feather would be a good way to go because I'm certain I don't have the skill (in descending order,) to sharpen, hone, strop a blade. This thread scared me off the feather, but lacking the skills to take proper care of a real blade, does that mean I'm out of the running? (and don't try and flatter me and tell me that I'll learn--there are some things I know are beyond me.) And all that being the case, does it mean that a klutz of my ilk should simply stay away from a STR8? BTW--I also can't shave with my left hand, so it would all have to be right-handed.
    thanks for any info anyone wishes to provide.
    Eric

  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ravkesef View Post
    This thread scared me off the feather, but lacking the skills to take proper care of a real blade, does that mean I'm out of the running?
    Not at all. The feather AC is easily tamed with a wine cork. Put the Super Pro blade in the holder, and drag it lightly across a wine cork 6-8 times, and this will strop off some of the teflon and dull the blade slightly, leaving it shaving about like a well-honed straight. The blade won't last as long like this, about 6-7 shaves, but they will be good dependable shaves.

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