Thread: Can this razor be saved?

Let me see if I can explain all this:

The more hone wear, the thinner the spine and the wider the bevel. So, when honing, you're honing more steel and, as the spine gets thinner, the edge moves closer to the spine. The closer the edge moves to the spine, the thicker the steel and the more difficult it is get a keen edge. Taping the spine will make it easier to get a keen edge, but because the edge or bevel is thick (and I'm talking steel thickness, not bevel width), it doesn't shave well. Sharp thin steel will cut more effectively than equally sharp thick steel.

Let's talk about bevel angles. Thin steel will be honed to a narrow bevel (low bevel angle) and a certain sharpness. Thick steel can be honed to the same sharpness, but the bevel angle will be wide (as viewed from the side). Consider that the average 6/8 razor may have a bevel angle of 18 degrees and delivers a comfortable shave. Now, keep the same sharpness and 6/8 blade width, but widen the bevel angle to 30 degrees (making the spine thicker). Shaving with that razor won't be easy. You'll have to compensate for the increased bevel angle by increasing the blade to skin angle. We all know the discomfort that comes with raising the spine too far beyond the 30 degree optimum angle.

To explain (or muddy the waters) further: The razor geometry is complex. You have the blade width, spine thickness and bevel angle all working together. You may shave with the razor at a 30 degree angle to your face, but the angle to your face at the bevel is much lower (sigh... I wish I had some diagrams). So, if you have a wide bevel angle you will need to raise the blade angle much higher to achieve the same bevel to face angle that you got with the razor with a low bevel angle. (good god... the pellet with the poison's in the vessel with the pestle. The chalice from the palace has the brew that is true. - sorry, obscure reference to an old Danny Kaye movie )

I fear that this is still clear as mud, but I hope that helps.