Thread: Engraving

I checked on having my name engraved on one of my razors at a place called Gentlemens Best.
They told me they would have to anneal my razor to engrave the blade. When I inquired as to whether they were capable of re heat treating it, I was told that they did not do that, since it would not affect the whole blade, only near the poc what ever that is.
I don't know what they would have to do but I do not want any part of my razor annealed. My questions were answered with very short statements and were not very comforting. I am not as excited about it as I was.
Anyone know anything about this. Mack

I think "poc" must mean "point of contact" - where the laser draws the script. I can't see how they would selectively anneal it, short of covering the spine and edge and other areas with fire-clay or similar and then heating where the script would be to remove the temper. However, that might produce differential colouring and possibly even a visible "hamon" line like you see on japanese swords - maybe.

Whether or not a laser can mark tempered steel depends on both its power and type: CO2 lasers are not ideally suited for metal work whereas YAG types are - perhaps the place in question uses CO2 lasers?

A lot of decorative spinework, channeling, lines, etc are done before heat treating, so the metal is soft, but you can etch hardened metal with hand engraving machines that make use of carbide and diamond tips.

Your needs would probably be suitable for etching - thoroughly clean the blade, degrease it, dip it in melted beeswax or coat it with asphaltum hard resist (sold by printmakers merchants) and sign your signature on it with a pencil or suitable sribe, being careful to remove all the wax/resist to leave the metal exposed under the signature, then daub the area with etching solution (eg nitric acid/hydrochloric acid 3:1 for stainless, ferrous chloride for carbon steel). The ferrous chloride is available from printmakers merchants or DIY copper circuit board places.

Regards,
Neil

That's a really good idea. Actually, I'll try the photo resist method on an old broken King Cutter I have, to see what kind of complex graphics could be etched w/ FeCl. Also, heat up the FeCl before application, in an OPEN and VENTILATED area... makes it more efficient.

Also, not too sure if it would translate well to carbon steel but I etch a lot of PCBs and I find that Ammonium Persulfate is a whole lot cleaner than FeCl... but might not be as good on steel.

v76 - one more tip for the FeCl: if you are using it in a small tank, one of those goldfish bubblers works well to agitate it - I have one with a small impellor that circulates the liquid, helps stop the bubble-build up on the steel and the detritus that builds up and also speeds the action.

Regards,
Neil

Given, hand engraving would run considerably higher than laser engraving. However, it would not involve heat and it would almost inevitably produce a higher grade of engraving insofar as it would be a hand made product.

Originally Posted by Neil Miller

v76 - one more tip for the FeCl: if you are using it in a small tank, one of those goldfish bubblers works well to agitate it - I have one with a small impellor that circulates the liquid, helps stop the bubble-build up on the steel and the detritus that builds up and also speeds the action.

Regards,
Neil

Yes I've been using an old aquarium + pump for a while now, works well but I'm still tempted to get a "real" etching tank so it looks better!

I have had a few laser etch/engravings done by Ray, they are all perfect. They have all come back ready to go back into action. The one pictured has a lot of blade work, and it's no different than the day I bought it.

Alchemist,
I am a hand engraver, albeit an amature of sorts. There is no way you could engrave a razor that way. Much too hard.