Thread: Is this razor shave ready?

Salazch,

How the razor shaves is the only proof of the pudding.

I have never had any of my razors, nor any DE razor blade pass the HHT, as I the only hair I have for testing is my wifes very, very fine hair.

Have fun !

best regards

Russ

As others have said, dont worry about the HHT. The only true test is the shave test, and if it shaves good, it is good..!

To give an example, my Boker Edelweisse, which I got from SRD and was honed by Lynn, passes the HHT for me most of the time. With my dad it passes all the time and a friend of mine couldnt get it to work at all. It also works better for me a few hours after a shower, and worse right afterwards.

So many factors affect this test; Hair thickness, hair cleanliness, which end of the hair you hold, how far along the hair you touch it to the blade... Some people have even said that the HHT is nothing more than a parlour trick.

This is why so many of us recommend new guys to stay away from these tests, as they can be very confusing if you dont know what you are looking for.

It is possible to get a straight razor as sharp as a DE or feather blade, but the difference is that DE and Feather blades are coated with teflon to reduce friction which is what gives them that "over sharp" feeling that some people dont like.

As Obie said, watch your angles. Too much or too little and the razor wont shave, or it will start pulling. Also, make sure you stretch the skin; This will help get a closer shave.

Dont worry too much about getting the same sound as Jockeys did in his video. Bear in mind that he will have a different beard to you, and the razor makes a difference too. My Wacker 15/16 makes a quite noticable "buttering toast" noise, but my 5/8 Edelweisse is far quieter.

What it really comes down to is getting a technique that works for you. The way I shave will be different to the way Obie shaves, which in turn will be different to the way you shave. Our beards all grow differently, with differing thickness of hair and growth direction and part of the fun of this hobby is learning how to achieve that elusive BBS shave!

It took me months to get a really BBS shave, and I still dont get it every time even now. I'm always learning something new, and thats what keeps it interesting!

Good luck!

Hey Salach,

I'll throw this in because my profile fits yours pretty closely...somewhat new to the use of straights and I've been using 2-new Dovos purchased from Straight Razor Designs and therefore, honed by Lynn. I purchased these as something to use as a gauge of what a shave ready razor is like so that I could apply that standard to my own attempts at honing.

My first shave turned out good on the BBS, but, I noted a little pulling here an there, as well, sometime after the shave, I began feeling like I'd fried my face. The problem, definitely, my angle, and probably a few other things that I won't list...(prep. etc.). Due to the Razor burn, (pain is a very good teacher), I paid attention the next shave and had a much better result and relatively little irritation.

Finally, I've been using thes razors since about December 30th, shaved with one last night to a perfect shave and absolutely no irritation, so, this razor has probably at least 8 shaves on it, with only the prescribed stropping while allowing a lather to soak in...as stated, I have two of them, purchased the same day and having the same use...shaving great, and comfortable. If there is any problem, I feel pulling here and there, I check and find that the problem was me, angle, need a touch up lather, etc., especially flipping strong hand to weak hand.

I offer this as I know everything I don't know, which, seems to be your station right now, and have the same product to offer a 2nd opinion on...

Luck, my friend

____________
Scott

Zack,

I've been following your questions and comments with some interest, enough that I decided to re-rotate my Dovo Best to the front and have used it for my last few shaves. The only differences between our 2 razors is, I believe, handle color and size - mine's a 6/8 butterscotch and yours is a 5/8 black (?).

One thing that I do differently than most here is that I don't use a protractor. Thus my shaving angles-of-attack are approximate at best. When shaving, I try to watch what the edge is doing rather than how much of the spine is in the air, but when I've looked in on the trailing action it's usually about one of its thicknesses above what just got shaved. At least that's how it goes on the first pass. The greater the angle, the greater the the discomfort and the more likely a cut. The only place where a greater angle should be used is under one's nose for the "coup de maitre" transition stroke from nostril to lip.

On my second and last pass I can only guess at the angle as the blade is going up my cheeks and up from adams apple to chin so I really can't see what the spine is doing, but my guess is it's less than it was on the first pass. At least that's what I try for and from the smoothness of the results that's probably what is going on.

If you are getting a pretty smooth shave with your first use of your straight razor, things are going well for you. Your sharpness test needs to be how the razor shaves - not the HHT. Personally, I've never used the HHT, rather I use the thumb pad test while honing and the shave test once I think I'm done with the stones.

The "buttering toast" noise is a pretty good description of what the full hollow "singing" blade croons while it's working on your stubble. This "song" varies with beard type and grind. The more wedge-like the grind is, the less the razor "vocalizes."

Before shaving, use the linen/fabric side of your strop, then the leather. Keep the strop taut, but not insanely so. I use in the vicinity of 40 strokes on each, but that varies with mood and how obsessive I feel that morning.

good shaving and keep us posted,

Bruce I am the same way in terms of angle... I think most people are so obsessed with the 30 degree angle that they ended up using a waaaaay too aggressive angle.

Originally Posted by Bruce

Zack,

I've been following your questions and comments with some interest, enough that I decided to re-rotate my Dovo Best to the front and have used it for my last few shaves. The only differences between our 2 razors is, I believe, handle color and size - mine's a 6/8 butterscotch and yours is a 5/8 black (?).

One thing that I do differently than most here is that I don't use a protractor. Thus my shaving angles-of-attack are approximate at best. When shaving, I try to watch what the edge is doing rather than how much of the spine is in the air, but when I've looked in on the trailing action it's usually about one of its thicknesses above what just got shaved. At least that's how it goes on the first pass. The greater the angle, the greater the the discomfort and the more likely a cut. The only place where a greater angle should be used is under one's nose for the "coup de maitre" transition stroke from nostril to lip.

On my second and last pass I can only guess at the angle as the blade is going up my cheeks and up from adams apple to chin so I really can't see what the spine is doing, but my guess is it's less than it was on the first pass. At least that's what I try for and from the smoothness of the results that's probably what is going on.

If you are getting a pretty smooth shave with your first use of your straight razor, things are going well for you. Your sharpness test needs to be how the razor shaves - not the HHT. Personally, I've never used the HHT, rather I use the thumb pad test while honing and the shave test once I think I'm done with the stones.

The "buttering toast" noise is a pretty good description of what the full hollow "singing" blade croons while it's working on your stubble. This "song" varies with beard type and grind. The more wedge-like the grind is, the less the razor "vocalizes."

Before shaving, use the linen/fabric side of your strop, then the leather. Keep the strop taut, but not insanely so. I use in the vicinity of 40 strokes on each, but that varies with mood and how obsessive I feel that morning.

good shaving and keep up posted,

I have sharpened my fixed straights to be as sharp as a fresh disposable blade or at least it feels as sharp with my tumbpad. But the bevel angle on the disposable blade is a big one so it cuts a bit differently and these blades are stiff with no flex in them.

I am not big on the HTT Test. Instead, I dry stroke the hairs on the arm. If the blade feels like its catching hairs and popping a few, its good to go. If it feels smooth and not really catching the hairs, then the blade is on the dull side and needs stropping and/or sharpening.

These days, I just lightly touch it with my thumbpad to determine if its sharp enough to shave. I developed this skill while learning on disposable straights and touching the edge after each shave. I then transferred this skill over to fixed straights and it comes in handy when stopping and determining if the straight razor is shave ready or not.

Good Luck,

Pabster

Originally Posted by Obie

My dear Salazch,

The "buttering toast" sound on your face may have a different tone than that on Jocky's. (By the way, his video is excellent.) Duplicating his sound, therefore, may be unrealistic. Concentrate on the sound on your face.

As for the razor angle, the general rule for the razor is 30 degrees. General rule, I said. There, too, you may have to vary your angle (you do in different parts of the face, anyway).

You can't force technique. Your personal technique and style will develop through practice and experiment. It will develop naturally, I might add. Keep trying different moves and angles. Also concentrate on stretching. Vary its angle according to need. Keep at it. Focus, experiment and have patience. You're on your way.

Regards,

Obie

I've gotta agree with Obie here: your personal technique still needs to be developed. For me, the most comfy angle is different for each area. It takes a bit of trial and error. Do what makes the shave comfy and close, it doesn't have to be anything like what other people do. If you hold the razor weird, if the razor makes a sound or doesn't, if it passes some test - who cares? Just get a nice, close shave without irritation and you're golden.

I had to find the right angles by taking a short stroke, then going a little steeper and a little shallower to see which is better. Keep tweaking until it feels right. Like how an eye doctor figures out your eyeglass prescription: "Better 1 or 2?" Answer 2, OK, "Better "2 or 3?" etc. etc. Once you hit the sweet spot, try to remember for your next shave.