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Thread: wade and butcher question..

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  1. #1
    Collector/Polisher Patryn's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=ScienceGuy;1391977]Scales on the first one are likely vulcanite, not a chance of being tortoise. Not sure where the idea that tortoise severely darkens over time comes from, there's tortoise from the 1700s that's bright as day, maybe it comes from some razors that were made with the darker areas of tortoise to begin with? I have some old French ones that just were never made with scutes that had nice light areas. Also, my bet would be that those scales are not original. Remember, just because you got it like it is or even that it's been in a family for 150 years doesn't mean the scales are original to the razor, this can make dating problematic sometimes. The WB logo looks like it is etched, this would back up the later date of the razor; going by the shape of it will be difficult as this razor has seen very very heavy regrinding / reprofiling.

    Scales on razor #2 are definitely bone. You can tell from all the black streaks and specs coming from the pores in the bone. Further, not as strong evidence, but there are collars; ivory was typically peened collarless.[/QUOTE



    Thanks for the update on razor 2 - it's kinda hard to get good info on blades - when all people wanna do is buy them, restore them and or charge you for any of the following. Is their a guide or any good books on dating/collecting for razors I should be looking for/ or saving for that matter?
    www.rzrrestoration.com
    Interested in Japanese Blades & Wade&Butcher razors

  2. #2
    Senior Member ScienceGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patryn View Post
    Thanks for the update on razor 2 - it's kinda hard to get good info on blades - when all people wanna do is buy them, restore them and or charge you for any of the following. Is their a guide or any good books on dating/collecting for razors I should be looking for/ or saving for that matter?
    Some of it comes from experience, i.e. getting to know shapes, styles, grinds, etc, but that is very rough dating. Symbols can be helpful, like VR, WR GR etc for the different royal periods. Mainly it comes down to knowledge of the maker (and how to search the directories), to see when they existed or when they might have changed their markings. When you put all of that together, you get a decent idea of a date. Sometimes though, you're lucky to get +/- 10 years.

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